Simple Stocks for Soup on the Fly

by Mark Bittman

For years, I’ve written about the merits of homemade stock (or at least stock made by a real person), even insisting that if it’s a choice between canned or boxed stocks and water, you’re better off with water. At their best, the canned and boxed versions taste like salt; at their worst, like chemicals.

But here’s the problem with homemade stock: It’s so good that it doesn’t last long. What’s needed is something you can produce more or less on the spot. Although water is a suitable proxy in small quantities, when it comes to making the bubbling, chest-warming soups that we rely on this time of year, water needs some help.

Fortunately, there are almost certainly flavorful ingredients sitting in your fridge or pantry that can transform water into a good stock in a matter of minutes. The process may be as simple as simmering in water fresh herbs, mushrooms or even tea, or browning aromatics to create richness, or adding staples like crushed tomatoes or coconut milk. To further maximize flavor in minimal time, it pays to reach for ingredients that pack a punch, like miso, anchovies, chipotles, Parmesan rinds, sometimes even leftovers.

These recipes are meant to be fast, so by ‘‘simmer,’’ I mean as little as five minutes and no more than 15. You can season these stocks at the end with salt and pepper to taste, or wait until you’re ready to turn them into full-fledged soups. In the continuing spirit of speed, convert these into soups using things that also cook quickly: some combination of chopped greens or other tender vegetables, cooked grains or beans, shellfish or thinly sliced meats. The recipes here yield about six cups of stock, enough for four servings of soup.

I tend to make these sorts of on-the-fly stocks in small, one-time-use batches, but if you want or need to store them, you can do so in the freezer for weeks or months, or in the fridge for a few days. Whether you stock up or not, take comfort in knowing that soup is never more than a few minutes away.

Coconut Stock

Thai-style (pictured): Combine 4 cups coconut milk, 2 cups water, 1 tablespoon fish sauce (or to taste), the juice of a lime and some chunks of ginger (you can leave the skin on), chile, garlic and lemon grass (if you can find it). Bring to a boil, simmer and strain.

Indian-style: Sauté a chopped onion in oil until deeply browned, then add 2 tablespoons curry powder and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add the coconut milk, water and ginger. After simmering, take out the ginger (no need to strain it unless you don’t want the onion).

Mushroom Stock

Toss a pound of trimmed button mushrooms and a few dried porcini into 6 cups water. It need not be more complicated than this, but adding some onion, carrot or celery makes it even better. Bring to a boil, and simmer. Strain the mushrooms out if you like, but make sure to use them for something.

Miso Stock

So simple it almost feels like cheating. Bring 6 cups water almost to a boil. In a separate bowl, combine ⅓ to ½ cup miso with a splash of the simmering water; whisk until smooth, then, with the heat at a minimum, whisk the miso mixture into the pot. Do not boil this mixture, but heat added ingredients gently.

Herb Stock

Combine 6 cups water with a small handful of rosemary, thyme or sage sprigs, a large handful of parsley sprigs, a few bay leaves, 1 or 2 crushed garlic cloves and a pinch of black peppercorns. Bring barely to a simmer, then turn off the heat; steep a few minutes, and strain.

Smoky Tea Stock

A perfect broth for udon noodles. Drop some sliced ginger into 6 cups water, bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Let rest for a few minutes, then stir in ¼ cup Lapsang souchong tea leaves (green tea is also good). If you can’t find loose tea leaves, use 4 tea bags. Steep for 5 or 10 minutes, then strain. Season with soy sauce if you like, and add some black pepper.

Prosciutto-Parmesan Stock

Combine some prosciutto rinds or ends (or 4 ounces sliced prosciutto), a few pieces of Parmesan rind, 2 crushed garlic cloves, a rosemary sprig and 6 cups water. Bring to a boil, simmer, then strain.

Rustic Tomato Stock

Italian-style (pictured): Sauté 1 tablespoon minced garlic and 2 teaspoons minced anchovies in olive oil until fragrant. Add 3 cups crushed canned tomatoes, 3 cups water and a sprig of thyme, rosemary or basil (or a combination) if you like. Bring to a boil, simmer, then fish out the herbs if you used them.

Mexican-style: Substitute 1 tablespoon minced chipotle in adobo for the anchovies, and add a small minced red or yellow onion to the sauté. Stir in the juice of a lime at the end.