Oatmeal Latte

I would pass by Cafe Descartes whenever I'd go down to the Loop and was curious, but never went in until I read an article recently about its owner and how he started his business. I finally stopped by one day to try their Oatmeal Latte. I love this drink. It's a mix of a double shot of espresso, steamed milk, oatmeal, cinnamon, honey with walnuts and almonds (that's why it's served with a spoon). At $5 a pop, it's probably a bit pricey, but hey, you're getting coffee-and-breakfast in one so it's not so bad! It's also a bit filling. I didn't have lunch until early afternoon.


Cafe Descartes Oatmeal Latte

8 oz Oatmeal, uncooked
2 Tbsp. Golden Raisins
2 Tbsp. Chopped Walnuts
2 Tbsp. Slivered Almonds
1/2 tsp. Cinnamon
1 Shot of Freshly-Roasted Cafe Descartes Espresso
1 tsp. Honey
1 Tbsp. hazelnut of vanilla syrup
8 oz. Skim Milk
2 Tbsp. Fresh Blueberries

Pour 8 ounces of raw oatmeal into a large cup.

Add the dry ingredients to the cup: 2 tablespoons each of golden raisins, chopped walnuts and slivered almonds; and 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon.

Pour in a shot of freshly-roasted espresso.

Add 1 tsp. honey and 1 tbsp. of hazelnut or vanilla syrup into the cup.

Froth 8 oz. of skim milk in a stainless steel pitcher, for about 10 seconds.

Add the other ingredients to the milk.

Froth all the ingredients together, about 15 seconds.

Add 2 Tbsp. of fresh blueberries to top it off.

Pour back into the cup and enjoy!

Five Ways To Enjoy Sweet Potatoes

From Real Simple

• Sweet Potato Wedges With Rosemary and Brown Sugar
  Toss sweet potato wedges with olive oil, brown sugar, salt, pepper, and chopped fresh rosemary. Roast at 400° F, tossing once, until tender, 45 to 50 minutes.
• Sweet Potato and Bacon Pasta
  Sauté peeled and diced sweet potatoes in olive oil with smashed garlic cloves until tender. Toss with cooked pasta, grated Parmesan, crumbled bacon, and chopped fresh chives.
• Baked Sweet Potatoes With Chipotle Sour Cream
  Pierce whole sweet potatoes with a fork. Bake at 400° F until tender, 45 to 50 minutes. Serve with a mixture of sour cream and chipotle chili powder. Top with chopped fresh cilantro.
• Sweet Potato Pancakes With Sage
  Mix coarsely grated sweet potatoes with grated onion and chopped fresh sage; season with salt and pepper. Pan-fry spoonfuls of the mixture in olive oil until crisp and cooked through.
• Spiced Mashed Sweet Potatoes
  Boil peeled and cut-up sweet potatoes until tender. Mash with unsalted butter and honey. Season with ground cumin, paprika, salt, and pepper.
• Tip: Pureed cooked sweet potatoes are a delicious alternative to canned pumpkin puree in pies, cakes, and casseroles.

Baked Eggs

My husband usually prepares breakfast, but for Mother's Day, I made baked eggs and while my husband and I enjoyed our meal, our son found it "unteresting", meaning he didn't like it.

Calamansi Marmalade

This is one of my favourite meals for lunch - almond butter and calamansi marmalade on toasted bread. I've run out of both so it's back to peanut butter and jelly. Sigh.

Knothole Egg

Here's another recipe from Marion Cunningham's Cooking with Children that I tried last week. It's a fun way of making fried eggs (whether sunny side up or over easy).

Serves 1.

1 slice bread
1 egg
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper

1. Toast the bread lightly in a toaster. Using a 2-inch round cookie cutter or a small glass (I used the 1/4 measuring cup), cut a hole out of the center of the slice of toast. Discard the little round piece of bread - or eat it up.
2. Crack the egg into a bowl. (Or you can crack it directly onto the skillet.)
   
3. Place the butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat. When it melts, lift the skillet a little and tilt it all around so the butter coats the bottom. Put the toast in the skillet. Now pour the egg from the bowl into the hole in the bread so the yolk falls into the hole. The white will run over the bread, which is what it is meant to do. (Have a spoon nearby so if the yolk misses the hole you can gently shove it in with the spoon.)
4. Turn the heat as low as possible. Sprinkle the egg with salt and pepper (I like to add some herbs). Cover the skillet and cook for about 1-1/2 minutes. Then take off the cover, turn the toast and egg over with a metal spatula, and cook the other side for just a few seconds more, uncovered. Slide the spatula under the bread-and-egg and carefully lift it out of the skillet, put it on a plate, and eat it while it's hot.

Meatloaf

I am not a big fan of meatloaf, but it was one of the recipes in Marion Cunningham's Cooking with Children that I wanted my son to try. (She has a grown-up version of it at Epicurious.) My son actually loved the dish, but I would cook it longer than the 40 minutes indicated in the recipe.

Serves 4.

If you are making meatloaf for dinner, set the table and wash the greens for a salad (or prepare anything else you plan to have with the meatloaf) while it is baking. Then you will have everything ready so you can serve the meatloaf while it is hot and sit down and enjoy it. Remember that leftover meatloaf makes a wonderful sandwich the next day. It is just as delicious cold in a sandwich as it is hot on a plate.

1 lb ground beef (about .454 kilo)
1 egg
1/3 cup tomato ketchup
2 slices bread
1/4 cup milk
1 small yellow onion
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Lightly oil a loaf pan or any medium-sized baking dish that will hold about 6 cups.
2. Put the ground beef in a mixing bowl and break it into pieces, handling it lightly. If you pack it down, press on it, and squeeze it firmly, it will be tough when it is baked. Handling it lightly and gently helps keep the meat moist and tender when it is baked.
3. Break the egg into a small bowl and stir it with a fork. Add 1/3 ketchup to the egg and stir to mix. Pour the ketchup-egg mixture over the meat, but don't mix it in yet.
4. Tear the 2 slices of bread into bits about the size of a macaroni noodle, and put them in the bowl you used for the egg.
5. Sprinkle the 1/4 cup milk over the bread pieces, and then lightly toss them with your hands. Let the bread and milk sit a minute while you chop the onion.
6. Add the minced onion to the beef in the mixing bowl, but don't start mixing yet.
7. Add to the meat the bread bits that have soaked up the milk and sprinkle salt and pepper lightly over the beef and other ingredients.
8. Using your hands, gently mix all the ingredients together.
9. Gather up the beef mixture and put it into the loaf pan or baking dish. Pat it lightly so it is even on top. Put it in the oven and bake for an hour.
10. Carefully remove the meatloaf from the oven and put it down on a heatproof surface. You can cut slices of meatloaf right out of the pan. Make them about 1 inch thick. Use a knife or thin metal spatula to lift the slices out of the pan. Put the slices on the serving plate and eat while the meatloaf is still hot.
    

Asparagus - Steamed, Roasted, Stir-Fried, Grilled

Asparagus is our family's favourite vegetable, so I was thrilled to see this article from Mark Bittman about it.

It takes effort to maintain a sense of seasonality with asparagus, given that it has become a year-round product. But right now even the stuff in supermarkets may come from a local source — so that the stalks snap rather than bend when you apply pressure and the aroma and flavor are fresh rather than simply strong.

Still, even the best asparagus needs something, even if it’s as little as olive oil and lemon. Hence the following below, with the best cooking methods — steaming (or poaching; in the case of asparagus, they’re roughly equivalent); roasting; grilling (or broiling, which is always an alternative, because the broiler is nothing but an upside-down grill); and stir-frying — and flavors well suited to each.

There are several varieties of asparagus, including white, which is, in my experience, overrated. (You Northern Europeans may yell at me all you like; I’ve tried it everywhere.) The most relevant difference for most of us is thick versus thin, and you can use either in any recipe here. In the 1990s, I considered skinny asparagus far superior to fat, because it requires no peeling and cooks in a flash. A few years ago, I began to better appreciate the delicious snap of thick spears as well as their relative sturdiness. Certainly if you’re steaming or grilling, thick is the preferable type. It really should be peeled; it will look, taste and bite more nicely if you take the time. And with thick or thin, you can snap the bottoms off or go the easier route and just chop off the last inch or two with a chef’s knife.

You might prefer asparagus crisp-tender or softer than that; either way, it’s done when you can pierce the thickest part of a spear with a sharp knife without much resistance. This might take less than five minutes for very slender asparagus, twice that long for thick. (Roasting is the slowest of the cooking methods here.) For all of these recipes, use 1 1/2 to 2 pounds to serve four people, and as always, add salt and black pepper to taste.

1. STEAMED

With Brown Butter
Put asparagus in a covered pot with an inch of water (they may stand, lean or lie flat) and turn heat to high. Put 2 to 4 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium heat; stir occasionally until foam subsides and butter turns nut brown. When asparagus is done, drain, drizzle with butter and serve.

With Aïoli
Skip brown butter. Put an egg yolk in a food processor with 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, 1 to 4 peeled garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 teaspoon lemon zest. Turn it on and drizzle in 1 cup olive oil; an emulsion will form. Serve asparagus dipped in aïoli.

With Fried Eggs and Ham
Skip brown butter. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 4 slices good ham and cook gently on both sides; remove. Add 2 more tablespoons butter in skillet and fry four eggs until whites are firm. Serve asparagus topped with ham, eggs and any pan juices.

2. ROASTED

With or Without Bacon
Heat oven to 450. Toss asparagus with 2 tablespoons olive oil (more if you don’t use bacon) and 4 ounces cubed bacon (optional) in a roasting pan. Roast, turning once or twice, until done. Garnish: Grated Parmesan.

With Carrots, Sesame and Soy
Skip bacon. Substitute sesame oil for the olive oil and add 2 thinly sliced carrots to roasting pan. After 5 minutes of roasting, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sesame seeds. When done, drizzle with soy sauce and toss. Garnish: Crumbled toasted nori.

With Blue Cheese and Bread Crumbs
After 5 minutes of roasting, turn asparagus and top with 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs and 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese. Continue to roast without turning until asparagus is done. Turn on broiler and broil until top browns, about 1 minute.

3. STIR-FRIED

With Shallots and Fish Sauce
Put a large skillet over high heat for 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons peanut oil, then asparagus — cut into 2-inch lengths — and 10 halved shallots. Cook, stirring, until asparagus and shallots are dry and beginning to brown. Add 2 tablespoons water and 1 tablespoon fish sauce; cook until done. Garnish: Chopped peanuts.

With Scallops and Black Beans
Soak 1 tablespoon fermented black beans in sake or white wine to cover while pan heats. Substitute 1 tablespoon minced garlic for the shallots and soy sauce for the fish sauce. Add black beans and 1/2 pound sliced or cubed scallops to pan along with soy sauce and water. Garnish: Chopped chives.

With Chicken and Shiitakes
Skip shallots. When pan is hot, add oil, then 1/2 pound cubed chicken thighs. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned; remove. Add asparagus and 1/2 pound trimmed and sliced shiitake mushrooms; proceed, substituting oyster sauce for the fish sauce. Add chicken back to pan along with oyster sauce and water. Garnish: More oyster sauce.

4. GRILLED

With Lemon Marinade
Heat a grill with rack 4 to 6 inches from flame. Combine 2 tablespoons olive oil and zest and juice of 1 lemon; brush asparagus with this. Grill asparagus crosswise, turning once or twice and brushing with sauce until done. Garnish: Lemon wedges.

With Grape Tomatoes and Pesto
Skip lemon; grill 1 pint grape tomatoes, skewered, with the asparagus, brushing all with olive oil. Purée 1 cup basil leaves, 1 small garlic clove, 1 tablespoon pine nuts, 1/4 cup (or more) olive oil and 1/4 cup grated Parmesan in a mini food processor. Serve asparagus and tomatoes with pesto.

With Red-Pepper Glaze
Substitute lime zest and juice for the lemon; add 1 tablespoon honey and 1/2 teaspoon (or more) red-pepper flakes. Grill 1 yellow bell pepper — cut into thick strips — and 4 trimmed scallions along with the asparagus, brushing all with the glaze. Garnish: Lime wedges.

Zucchini Ricotta Frittata

On second thought, I might make this instead.

6 large eggs

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 Tbsp chopped fresh basil

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 small zucchini, or one larger one, washed and sliced into thin rounds (about 3/4 pound)

1. Beat the eggs in a medium bowl. Add the ricotta and Parmesan and beat to combine. Add the salt, freshly ground black pepper, basil and thyme and beat to combine. Set aside.

2. Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch oven-proof stick-free skillet on medium high. When the oil is hot and begins to shimmer, add the zucchini slices. Stir so that the zucchini slices are all coated with some of the oil. Cook, stirring only occasionally (if you stir too much the zucchini won't brown), until the zucchini slices are lightly browned, about 5-6 minutes. Remove from heat. Remove zucchini slices from the pan with tongs or a slotted spoon to a bowl. Let cool for 30 seconds or so, and then stir the zucchini slices to the egg mixture.

3. Reheat the skillet. There should be a couple of tablespoons of oil left in the pan, if not, add some. When the oil is hot, pour the egg mixture into the pan. Do not stir it. Reduce the heat to medium. Let the egg mixture cook. Run a spatula along the edge of the frittata, separating the cooked edges from the pan. Let the egg mixture cook until the bottom is golden brown and the top is beginning to set, about 5-6 minutes.

4. Set the top rack 5 inches from the heating element in the oven. Preheat the oven broiler. Once the top of the frittata has started to set in the pan on the stove top, remove the pan from the stove and place it in the oven. With the broiler on, the door of the oven needs to be open. You can let the pan's handle stick out from the oven through the open door. Cook under the broiler until the top starts to become lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

Alternatively, instead of using the broiler, you can place a plate face-down on top of the skillet. Flip the skillet over to release the frittata on to the plate. Then slide the frittata from the plate back on to the skillet. Let cook for a couple of minutes more until the bottom side gets browned.

5. Slide the frittata out of the skillet onto a serving plate. Let cool for a minute or two and serve.

Yield: Serves 2-3.

Lemon-Ricotta Pancake

I have a tub of ricotta in the fridge and a couple of lemons, so we will have this for breakfast tomorrow.

A fresh cheese with a slightly sweet flavor, ricotta is produced from whey drained off while making other cheeses, such as mozzarella and provolone. It lends a delicate texture to these melt-in-your-mouth pancakes. Serve with raspberry sauce, if desired.

Ingredients:

1 cup ricotta cheese

1 cup milk

3 eggs, separated

1/4 cup sugar

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 1/2 cups cake flour

1 Tbs. baking powder

1/4 tsp. salt

Directions:

In a large bowl, whisk together the ricotta, milk, egg yolks, sugar, lemon zest and juice until smooth. Sift together the flour, baking powder and 1/8 tsp. of the salt over the ricotta mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until just combined.

In another large bowl, using a whisk, beat the egg whites until frothy. Add the remaining 1/8 tsp. salt and continue beating until soft peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, fold one-third of the egg whites into the ricotta mixture, then gently fold in the remaining whites.

Preheat a griddle over medium heat. Spray the griddle with nonstick cooking spray. Ladle 1/3 cup batter onto the griddle for each pancake. Cook until bubbles form on top and the pancakes are golden underneath, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook for 1 minute more. Transfer to a warmed plate. Repeat with the remaining batter. Makes 12 to 14 pancakes.

Williams-Sonoma Kitchen.

Crispy Adobo Flakes

Here's another tedious recipe that I just might want to try one of these days.

1 k pork belly (liempo), adobo-cut
1 k chicken, adobo-cut
2 c vinegar
2 tsp freshly ground pepper
2 pcs chicken or pork bouillon cubes
2 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ tsp salt

Wash pork and chicken. Drain thoroughly. In a pan, put together pork, chicken, vinegar, ground pepper, bouillon cubes, garlic and salt. Bring to a boil, without stirring, until meat is very tender and a bit dry. Let cool.

In another pan (not nonstick), put cooking oil enough to wet the pan. Gradually add the cooked adobo and fry. (A little portion of adobo is advisable to make it crispy). While frying, scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen the sticking bits and pieces as this is the tastiest part of the adobo. Serve while hot.

Bibimbap

This seems like a lot of work. In case, I decide to try making it, at least I have a recipe!

Mixed Rice Bowl (Bibimbap)

Bulgogi:

1 lb sliced rib eye (or bulgogi beef)
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame sauce
1 tsp sugar
3 garlic cloves, minced
About ½ tsp black pepper (optional)

Marinate the sliced rib-eye in soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and garlic for at least 30 minutes. Stir-fry the meat until thoroughly cooked, about 5-7 minutes. Add the black pepper, if you like. Set aside.

Spinach (Shigumchi Namool):

2 bundles of spinach, trimmed and thoroughly washed
1 tsp vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, minced
½ tsp salt

Blanch the spinach by quickly dunking the leaves in boiling water. Rinse immediately in cold water to stop cooking.

In a skillet, heat the vegetable oil. Add the garlic and stir-fry for about 1-2 minutes. Add spinach. Remove from heat, add salt and toss. Set aside.

Mushrooms (Buhsut Namool):

10 shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, minced
½ tsp salt

If using dried mushrooms, soak them in water for about 1 hour before slicing.

In a skillet, heat the vegetable oil. Add the garlic and mushrooms and stir-fry for about 2 to 3 minutes. Add salt and toss. Set aside.

Soybean Sprouts (Kohng Namool):

Water
1 lb soybean sprouts, washed and trimmed, if desired
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, minced
½ tsp salt

In a medium-sized pot, bring about ½ cup of water to a boil. Add the soybean sprouts and cover. Only some of the sprouts will be covered in water; the steam will cook the rest. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

In a skillet, heat the vegetable oil. Add the garlic and stir-fry for about 1-2 minutes. Add sprouts. Remove from heat, add salt and toss. Set aside.

Korean Zucchinis (Hobak Namool):

1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, minced
2 medium Korean zucchinis, Korean, julienned
½ tsp salt

In a skillet, heat the vegetable oil. Add the garlic and stir-fry for about 1-2 minutes. Add Korean zucchinis and stir-fry for another 2-3 minutes until the zucchinis are slightly limp. Remove from heat, add salt, and toss. Set aside.

Fern Bracken (Gosali Namool)—can be omitted. Ask the Korean grocers what can be substituted if you cannot find fern bracken.

2 tbsps vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, minced
½ pound fern bracken
1 tsp salt

In skillet, heat the vegetable oil. Add garlic and stir-fry for about 1-2 minutes. Add the fern bracken and stir-fry for another 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat, add salt and toss. Set aside.

Carrots:

1 tbsp vegetable oil
2 medium carrots, Korean julienned or che cut
½ tsp salt

In skillet, heat the vegetable oil. Add carrots and stir-fry for about 2-3 minutes (until carrots soften but do not lose their color). Add salt and toss. Set aside.

5 c of short grain rice, cooked
5 eggs, fried sunny side up
5 sprigs crown daisy leaves (soot), optional
Seasoned chili paste, sesame oil and soy sauce to taste

Assembly and presentation

Place 1 cup of rice in each of the five separate bowls. Arrange the vegetables and meat on top of the rice in a circle by color. Make sure there are no similar-colored vegetables next to each other. Place fried egg in each bowl. Garnish each bowl with a sprig of crown daisy. Serve immediately with seasoned chili paste (yangnyum gochujang), if you like it spicy, or with sesame oil and soy sauce.

(Recipe courtesy of the Korean Cultural Office, by Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee)

Pork and Sesame Ramen Noodle Soup

I love these two versions of ramen soup. I used other types of noodles aside from ramen.

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1/2 lb ground pork

1 tablespoon chili bean paste

1 teaspoon finely minced garlic

2 packages (3-1/2 oz each) instant ramen

4 cups reduced-fat, low-sodium canned chicken broth

1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted and ground

Hot chili oil (optional)

2 green onions, including tender green tops, minced

4 slices bamboo shoots (optional)

1/4 cup bean sprouts, both ends trimmed (optional)

1 hard-boiled egg, peeled and halved lengthwise (optional)

In a frying pan, heat the sesame oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the pork, breaking it up with a wooden spatula or spoon. Then add the chili bean paste and the garlic and cook, stirring often, until the pork is cooked through and a little crispy, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Open the ramen packages, discard the flavor packets, and then cook the ramen noodles in boiling water as directed on the package. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil over high heat.

Just before the noodles are done, divide the ground sesame seeds between 2 large soup bowls and pour the hot chicken broth over them, dividing it evenly. Drain the noodles and add them to the soup bowls, dividing them evenly and swirling them so that they don't stick together.

Drizzle in a little oil (if using), and then top each bowl with an equal amount of the pork, green onions, bamboo slices, bean sprouts, and half of the hard-boiled egg, if using. Serve immediately.

Miso Corn Bata Ramen (Miso-Flavored Ramen Noodle Soup with Corn and Butter)

The difference between the two is the absence of pork and of a sesame flavor and the addition of miso to the broth and a pat of butter just before serving. Omit the sesame oil, ground pork, chili bean paste, garlic, sesame seeds, and chili oil.

Cook the noodles as directed. While the noodles are cooking, bring the chicken broth to a gentle simmer. Scoop out a few spoonfuls of the hot broth into a small bowl, stir in 2 tablespoons or more white miso, and then slowly incorporate the diluted miso into the broth. Do not let the broth boil. Drain the noodles, divide them between 2 large soup bowls, and then pour in the broth, dividing it evenly. Top each bowl with 1/4 cup thawed, frozen corn kernels or drained canned corn; equal amounts of the green onions; the bamboo slices, the bean sprouts and half of the hard-boiled egg (if using). Finish each bowl with a pat of unsalted butter. Serve immediately.

Cucumber and Shrimp VInegared Salad (Sunomono)

I made this salad without the shrimps as I'm allergic to it, and I used mini cukes.

This salad keeps for a few days in the refrigerator, although you will need to drain off any excess liquid that accumulates during that time. You can substitute crab or scallops for the shrimp and you can adjust the sweet-and-sour ratio to your taste.

1 English cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, any errant seeds removed and cut crosswise into 1/8-inch thick half moons

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 lb shrimp

1/4 cup rice vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon soy sauce

Place the cucumber slices in a colander set over a large bow, sprinkle with salt, and let stand for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a saucepan filled with water to a boil, add the shrimp, and cook until they turn pink and begin to curl, about 3 minutes. Drain into a colander and place under cold running water to halt the cooking. Peel and devein the shrimp and then cut into 1/4-inch pieces. Set aside.

In a small bowl, stir together the vinegar, sugar, and soy sauce until the sugar dissolves.

Using your hands, squeeze the cucumber slices several times until as much water as possible is released. Pat the cucumber slices dry with paper towels and place in a bowl. Add the shrimp and then pour the vinegar mixture over the top. Using your hands, mix the ingredients well. Cover and refrigerate or at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to blend.

Serve the salad cold or at room temperature.

Mapo Dofu (Chinese-Style Spicy Tofu with Pork) & Mapo Nasu (Spicy Chinese-Style Eggplant with Pork)

This recipe has many versions and between the two versions that I had on hand, I chose this as it's less complicated. It turned out well, and I also made the eggplant version (recipe follows), which was quite good, too.

6 green onions
3 cloves garlic, mince
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced

Sauce:
2 teaspoons chili bean paste (toban djan) *
1/2 cup reduced-fat, low-sodium canned chicken broth
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 teaspoons water
About 1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
1/2 pound (0.226k) ground pork
2 packages (14 oz each) soft tofu, drained
3 cups hot cooked rice

1. Mince the white parts and tender green tops of 4 green onions, and then mince the white part only of the remaining 2 green onions. Cut the tender green tops of these lat 2 onions in half lengthwise and then cut crosswise into 1-inch lengths. Place the minced green onion, garlic, and ginger in 3 small separate bowls. Set the green onion tops aside separately.
2. Prepare the sauce ingredients. Measure the chili bean paste into a small bowl. In another small bowl, stir together the chicken broth, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sake, and sugar. Set the bowls near the stove. Have the cornstarch-water mixture and the bottle of sesame oil near the stove as well.
3. Place a wok or large frying pan over high heat. When it is hot, add the canola oil and swirl the pan to coat the bottom and sides with the oil. When the oil is very hot, add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly with a spatula so it doesn't burn, until fragrant. Then add the ginger and minced green onions, stir well, and reduce the heat to medium. Add the ground pork and continue to stir constantly, breaking up the pork and integrating it with the other ingredients. When the pork is just cooked, after about 2 minutes, add the chili bean paste and pour in the stock mixture. Using the spatula, combine all the ingredients well with the sauce.
4. Place the tofu in the pan and, using the edges of a ladle or a spoon, cut it into large chunks. Cook over medium heat until the tofu is heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir the water-cornstarch mixture to recombine, pour it slowly into the pan, and then stir gently until the liquid in the pan thickens and becomes glossy, about 1 minute. Drizzle in a little sesame oil and garnish with the reserved green onion tops.
5. Spoon the tofu-and-pork mixture into a serving bowl or onto a platter, family style, and serve each diner a bowl of rice. Or spoon the mixture over individual bowls of rice and serve.

* Other options: chili garlic paste or chili garlic sauce

Mapo Nasu (Spicy Chinese-Style Eggplant with Pork)

Same ingredients as above, except add: 4 Japanese or Chinese eggplants, about 1 lb total weight.

Follow steps 1 & 2.

Trim the stem and blossom ends from the eggplants, and then cut in half lengthwise. Cut each half in half again and lengthwise. Finally, cut each strip crosswise into 1/2-inch thick pieces.

In a wok or large frying pan, heat 4 tablespoons of canola oil over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the eggplant pieces and stir-fry until soft, about 4 minutes. Transfer the eggplant to a bowl.

Wip the pan clean and heat over high heat. When the pan is hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and swirl the pan to coat the bottom and sides. When the oil is very hot, add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly with spatula so it does not burn, until fragrant. Then add the ginger and minced green onions, stir well, and reduce the heat to medium. Add the ground pork and continue to stir constantly, breaking up the pork and integrating it with the other ingredients. When the pork is just cooked, after about 2 minutes, add the chili bean paste and pour in the broth mixture. Using the spatula, combine all the ingredients well with the sauce. Add the eggplant, stir well, and heat through. Stir the water-cornstarch mixture to recombine, pour it slowly into the pan, and then stir gently until the liquid in the pan thickens and becomes glossy, about 1 minute. Drizzle in a little sesame oil, if you like.

Spoon the eggplant-and-pork mixture into a serving bowl or onto a platter, family style, and serve each diner a bowl of rice. Or spoon the mixture over individual bowls of rice and serve.

Japanese Braised Pork Belly (Buta no Kakuni)

Here are 2 versions of this dish.

Version 1

Version 2

Easy Chili

Last night we had Taco Night, one of my son's favourite dinner nights. We had leftover ground meat, grated cheese, and salsa so I made chili tonight served with quinoa (for my husband and me) and rice for my son.

Here's a similar recipe.

Cincinnati Chili with Spaghetti and Grated Cheese

Here's an interesting twist to chili to try soon.

Black-Eyed Peas with Ham Hocks and Bacon

I tried a similar dish during the New Year. I will try this recipe from David Tanis as I have some black-eyed peas in the pantry.

This hearty and traditional dish to welcome in the New Year should be made a day ahead. The flavor will improve.

2 lbs dried black-eyed peas
4 smoked ham hocks, about 4 lbs
1/2 lb slab bacon, cut into medium dice
2 large onions, halved
1 bay leaf
Large pinch of red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper
8 cups water

Pick over and rinse the peas, and put them in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot. Add all the other ingredients and bring to a boil, then skim off the scum and turn down the heat. Simmer very gently for about 2 hours, adding more water if necessary.

When the peas are tender and the ham hock meat is falling from the bone, taste the broth and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Remove the pot from the heat, transfer the peas to a shallow container, and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, remove the congealed fat. Reheat the peas, thin with water, if necessary, and check the seasoning. Serve them right from the pot.

Panfried Steak with Steak Sauce

Ask your butcher to cut you some nice steaks for panfrying. A well-marbled rib eye makes a beautiful if somewhat pricey steak, but so do cheaper cuts like flatiron or hangar steak. Whichever, I always prefer restrained portions: 5-6 ounces per steak is plenty. Buy one steak for each person.

4-6 steaks, about 1 inch thick
Salt and pepper
4 garlic cloves, thickly sliced
Olive oil
1/2 cup beef broth
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Season the steaks generously on both sides with salt and coarsely ground pepper. Scatter the garlic over the steaks and drizzle over a little olive oil and rub it into the steaks. Set aside at cool room temperature for an hour or so. (Or cover and refrigerate, and return to room temperature in a few hours.)

You'll need two skillets, preferably cast-iron, to cook the steaks. Heat the pans until they're really hot. Remove the garlic slices from the steaks and discard. When the pans are good and hot, lay 3 steaks in each pan and let them sizzle. Do not touch them, do not move them. After 3 minutes, inspect the cooked side to see if it's beautifully seared and browned, and when it is, turn each steak over. Cook on the second side just until the juice appears on the surface, about 2 minutes more. Remove the steaks to a warm platter. Leave the pans on the stove, but turn off the heat.

To quickly make the sauce, pour 1/4 cup stock into each pan, stirring with a wooden spoon to deglaze. Pour all of the deglazed juices into one of the pans, turn up the heat to high, and quickly cook down the sauce to thicken slightly, then stir in the butter and parsley. Turn off the heat, swirl the pan to mix well, and spoon the sauce over the steaks.

Variation: Panfried Steak with Herb Butter

Instead of a sauce, make a simple herb butter to smear on the steaks: Mix 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley into 4 tablespoons softened butter and add a small garlic clove, pounded to a paste with a little salt. Spread a teaspoon or so over each finished steak on the platter. You could, of course, use a small shallot, finely diced, instead of garlic, or another herb, such as tarragon, chives, or rosemary.

Romaine Hearts with Shaved Parmigiano and Lemon Dressing

I love Parmigiano. I've always had the grated kind and it wasn't until we attended a food festival last year that I finally bought a chunk.

This is a flavor combination I always crave: romaine, lemon and Parmigiano. I never tire of this salad. It's easy, versatile, and though it can be made at any time of the year, is especially welcome in the dead of winter.

4 romaine hearts
3 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, smashed to a paste with a little salt
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper
A chunk of Parmigiano for shaving

First prepare the romaine hearts: Cut off the bottoms, and discard a few of the outer leaves of each head. Gently separate the inner leaves and refresh in a deep basin of cold water for just a minute. Drain well, wrap in kitchen towels, and refrigerate. The whole idea is that they should look fresh and crisp.

Now make the dressing: In a small bowl, stir together the lemon juice, mustard, and garlic. Whisk in the olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Taste and correct the seasoning if necessary; the dressing should be rather tart.

Put the leaves in a large salad bowl. Sprinkle lightly with salt, pour the dressing over the lettuce, and gently coat the leaves, tossing with your hands. with a vegetable peeler, shave large curls of Parmigiano over the salad.

Platter of Jicama, Avocado, Radishes and Oranges

This is a typical street food in Mexico, sold in market stalls, specially from fruit vendors, who cut up papayas, pineapples, oranges and cucumbers and serve them with salt, chile, and a squeeze of lime. Beautiful powdered spicy red chile molido - ground chile - is mixed with salt and sprinkled over the fruit.

For me, it's a short leap from that cart to the kitchen counter, where a platter of fresh fruits and vegetables translate perfectly to a stand-up appetizer with drinks. Use any combination that appeals to you. For the best red chile powder, visit your Latino or Indian grocery.

1 small jicama, peeled and thinly sliced
2 avocados, peeled, pitted, and sliced
1 large bunch radished, trimmed
3 navel oranges, sliced into thick rounds
2 small cucumbers, peeled and quartered lengthwise
A few Mexican or Key limes
Salt
Good-quality chile powder

Arrange all the fruits and vegetables beautifully on one huge platter (or on a banana leaf if you happen to have one handy), and surround with halved limes.

In a small serving bowl, mix equal parts salt and chile powder. Or do this to taste - you can make the mix saltier or spicier. Dip a lime half in the chile mix, rub on the spices, and squeeze the lime juice over the fruit and vegetables.

Piquant Tarragon Mayonnaise

I have never tasted homemade mayonnaise. I will probably try this recipe from David Tanis, just so I can finish my big bottle of Dijon mustard soon.

It's well worth it to make homemade mayonnaise. It's worlds away from the store-bought kind.

2 egg yolks
1-1/2 cups olive oil
Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon, or to taste
Dijon mustard
Generous pinch of cayenne
Salt and pepper
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
1 teaspoon chopped chives

Whisk the egg yolks in a bowl. Slowly whisk in 1 cup of olive oil, a spoonful at a time first, until an emulsion forms. Once the sauce thickens, you can continue whisking and add the oil in a slow, thin stream. When the mayonnaise is quite thick, add a little lemon zest and a good squeeze of lemon juice, a teaspoon or so of Dijon mustard, and the cayenne. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil. Thin the mayonnaise with a little water if necessary. Taste for seasoning, then stir in the chopped tarragon and chives.

The mayonnaise can be kept refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Zucchini Antipasto with Fresh Mozzarella

2 lbs medium zucchini
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
A few basil leaves and mint leaves
1 tablespoon chopped chives
Half a lemon
Sliced fresh mozzarella

Preheat the broiler. Cut the zucchini into 1/2-inch thick slices, either long or round. Season the slices on both sides with salt and pepper. Put the slices on a baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Broil them until they color lightly on the first side. Flip the slices and broil the other side. (OF course, you can do the zucchini on a charcoal grill or even in a cast-iron skillet.)

Arrange the zucchini on a platter, overlapping the slices. You can do this up to 2 hours ahead.

Just before serving, roughly chop the basil and mint leaves, and scatter them, with the chopped chives, over the zucchini. Squeeze the lemon over the platter, and give it another drizzle of olive oil. Serve with slices of fresh mozzarella, if you like.

Sesame Peanut Candy

I love nougat. Here's a photo of this candy.

These candies are a heavenly cross between meringue and nougat. You can make them a day or two ahead and store in an airtight container.

2 cups raw peanuts
1/2 cup sesame seeds
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 egg whites

Preheat the oven to 350F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Mix the peanuts, sesame seeds, sugar and salt in a mixing bowl. Whisk the egg whites into soft peaks. Stir half the egg whites into the nut mixture then gently fold in the remaining whites.

Spread evenly on the baking sheet about 1/2-inch thick. Bake until the brittle turns a toasty brown, about 25 minutes. Cool on a rack.

Peel off the parchment paper while the brittle is still a bit warm.

Allow to cool and harden completely before cutting into small squares.

Ginger Vinaigrette

I don't eat a lot of salads so I shouldn't buy any bottled dressing as I end up throwing it away as it usually sits in our fridge for months. I don't know how this vinaigrette from David Tanis tastes though, but I'm intrigued as I've never had ginger vinaigrette before. It's worth a try the next time I feel the urge to have salad. Maybe this coming summer?

1 shallot,finely diced
1 garlic clove, smashed to a paste with a little salt
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or rice vinegar
Salt and pepper
2 teaspoons finely diced or grated peeled ginger
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup grapeseed or other mild vegetable oil
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Juice of 1/2 lime

Combine the shallot and garlic in a small bowl with the vinegar. Add a little salt and pepper and let sit for about 5 minutes, then whisk in all the remaining ingredients. Makes about 1/2 cup.

Fork-Mashed Potatoes

Here's the next recipe from David Tanis.

In France these are called pommes de terres a la fourchette, which sounds glamorous for a dish of humble home-style potatoes mashed with a fork. You can make them as smooth as you like, or keep them rough and chunky.

2-1/2 lb yellow-fleshed potatoes, such as Yukon Gold
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup milk or cream
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons butter

Peel and cube the potatoes. Boil them in salted water 12-15 minutes, until fork-tender. Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Heat the milk in a small saucepan until just under a boil.

Pour the hot milk over the potatoes and add the olive oil and butter. Use a large fork to mash the potatoes to the consistency you like, then transfer to a warm serving bowl.

Asparagus-Scrambled Eggs

We all love asparagus and here's a recipe from David Tanis that should be good for breakfast. I found a link to another version of it here.

The French often begin a meal with soft scrambled eggs, oeufs brouilles. (In its ultimate rendition, the eggs are scrambled with black truffles.) But I actually discovered this dish in Spain, where it was made with wild asparagus. I love the combination of the bite of asparagus with the soft egg. Use skinny asparagus, or wild if you can find them. Cook this just before you sit down to eat; it'll be ready in minutes.

2 lbs asparagus
4 tablespoons butter
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
8 eggs, beaten
Several sprigs of mint and basil, leaves chopped

Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus. Cut the stalks into 1-inch lengths; if your asparagus are thick, halve the stalks lengthwise before cutting them. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the asparagus and chopped garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until just done, about 2 minutes.

Remove the asparagus from the skillet and set aside. Heat the remaining butter in the same pan. Season eggs with salt and pepper and add them to the pan. Stir gently until the eggs are barely set.

Fold in the asparagus, then spoon onto a warmed platter. Scatter chopped mint and basil on top.

Basic Coleslaw

Here's a basic coleslaw with a tangy mayonnaise dressing, and it's a great choice for summer meals. Serve this coleslaw with barbecue or sandwiches.
Ingredients:

6 cups shredded cabbage
1 carrot, shredded
2/3 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons vinegar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon celery salt
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Preparation:

Toss cabbage in a large bowl with the carrots. In a bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Pour the mixture over the cabbage and carrots and toss to coat thoroughly. Refrigerate until serving time.
Serves 6.

Slow Cooker Salsa Chili

I will make a stove top version of this tonight.

Chunky salsa adds the flavor punch to so-good, slow-cooked chili.


1 lb lean (at least 80%) ground beef
1 medium onion, chopped (1/2 cup)
2 cups Old El Paso® Thick 'n Chunky salsa
1 can (15 oz) tomato sauce
1 can (4.5 oz) Old El Paso® chopped green chiles
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 can (15 to 16 oz) pinto beans, drained, rinsed
Shredded Cheddar cheese, if desired
Sliced green onions, if desired

In 10-inch skillet, cook beef and onion over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until beef is thoroughly cooked; drain.

In 3- to 4-quart slow cooker, mix beef mixture and remaining ingredients except beans.
Cover; cook on Low heat setting 8 to 10 hours.

Stir in beans. Cover; cook on Low heat setting about 5 minutes longer or until beans are hot. Top with cheese and onions.

Substitution
Vary the taste by using black beans instead of pinto beans. If you like a milder chili, use mild salsa and a little less chili powder.

Do-Ahead
If you like, cook up a double batch of this hearty chili, then refrigerate or freeze half for another night. If you do make a double batch, use a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker.

Nutrition Information:
1 Serving (1 Serving)Calories 290(Calories from Fat 80),Total Fat 9g(Saturated Fat 3 1/2g,Trans Fat 1/2g),Cholesterol 45mg;Sodium 1350mg;Total Carbohydrate 31g(Dietary Fiber 7g,Sugars 7g),Protein 20g;Percent Daily Value*:Calcium ;Exchanges:1 1/2 Starch;0 Fruit;1/2 Other Carbohydrate;0 Skim Milk;0 Low-Fat Milk;0 Milk;0 Vegetable;0 Very Lean Meat;0 Lean Meat;0 High-Fat Meat;0 Fat;Carbohydrate Choices:2;*Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet.

10 Ideas for Cream of Mushroom

Here are some ideas for the cream of mushroom soup that I have in the pantry:

Take your dishes from ho-hum to yum-yum by simply opening a can of mushroom soup.

1. Got chops?
Season 3 pork chops with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in a skillet and brown the pork chops on both sides. Remove from pan; set aside. Deglaze pan with mushroom soup (1 can soup whisked with 1/2 cup water) and add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon. Return the chops to the pan and simmer until cooked through.

2. Chips and dip
Combine 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese with 1 can condesned mushroom soup, 1 (180-gram) pack sliced pimientos, 1 (400-gram) can diced tomatoes in a blender. Serve with chips or crackers.

3. Vegetable Casserole
Mix blanched or steamed vegetables (such as cauliflower, peas, broccoli, and carrots) with 1 can condensed mushroom soup whisked with 1/2 cup milk. Top with crushed crackers and bake.

4. Rice improvement
The next time you cook rice, replcae some of the water with mushroom soup. Try it with red or brown rice.

5. Smile and say spaghetti
Cook 1 (450-gram) pack spaghetti according to package directions. Drain and set aside. In a saucepan, crumble 300 grams spicy Italian sausages and cook until brown. Place sausages and spaghetti in a 9x13-inch glass baking dish; mix with mushroom soup (1 can soup whisked with 1/4 cup water and 1/4 cup milk). Spread a layer of croutons on top, add grated cheese, cover with foil. Bake in a preheated 400°F oven for 20 minutes, then remove foil and bake for another 15. Serves 5 to 7.

6. Revive leftovers
Got leftover meatballs and don't know what to do with them? Give them a new lease on life by serving them with mushroom soup gravy.

7. One-pouch wonder
Place a pack of instant ramen (seasoning packed discarded) on the center of a large sheet of foil and top with a fish fillet. Arrange sliced vegetables and mushrooms on top. Bring up the sides to make a pouch and pour mushroom soup in. Twist shut, place on a baking sheet, and bake for 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

8. Sandwich filling
Simmer shredded poached or roasted chicken in 1 can mushroom soup with 1/2 cup milk. Roll it up in a tortilla or spread on top of bread.

9. Fancy up a baking mix
We took a just-add-water buttermilk biscuit baking mix and elevated it by adding mushroom soup instead of water, along with a tablespoon of chopped rosemary.

10. Baked chicken mushroom rice
Whisk 1 can mushroom soup with 1/2 cup water and 1/2 cup milk until smooth. Add 2 tablespoons each honey and soy sauce. Mix in 3/4 cup washed jasmine rice. Pour into an 8x8-inch clear baking dish. Slice medium-sized red and green bell peppers (1 each) into strips; spread evenly on top of rice along with 2/3 cup sliced shiitake mushrooms. Chop 350 grams boneless and skinless chicken breasts into 2-inch pieces. Brush with 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce, sprinkle with chopped cilantro, and arrange on top. Cover dish with foil and bake for 25 mintues. Remove foil then bake for another 5 minutes. Sprinkle with more chopped cilantro, if desired. Serves 3 to 4.

Baked Salmon in Sinigang Mix

I have a few packets of sinigang mix waiting to be used so this recipe would be perfect for this Friday.

Four simple ingredients baked in less than 20 minutes equals one delicious dish that’s familiar in flavor yet ‘fine-dining’ in presentation.

Serves 6 to 8 Prep Time 1 minute Baking Time 15 minutes

1 whole salmon fillet
1 pack sinigang powder mix
1 cup unsalted butter, cubed
1 teaspoon dill leaves
lemon slices to garnish


1 Preheat oven to 350°F.

2 Grease a baking pan with butter then line with parchment paper.

3 Place salmon in pan and sprinkle with sinigang powder mix.

4 Arrange butter cubes on top of fish then sprinkle with dill.

5 Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until done. Serve with lemon slices on the side, if desired.


Broiling tip The fish can be baked in the oven toaster; just switch the setting from “broil” to “oven” and make sure there’s heat coming from the top and bottom.

Asparagus Stem Soup

I hate wasting food. I made roasted asparagus last week and kept the tough ends in the freezer to make into soup. I found this recipe that makes use of those tough stalks.


Serves 8

Stalks from two pounds of asparagus, cut in half length wise
1 medium onion chopped
1 large carrot scraped and cut into chunks
Several large lettuce leaves, or a small bunch of spinach
Enough chicken broth or water to cover the ingredients
Salt and pepper to taste
Celery salt to taste

Bring all the ingredients to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer covered until the stalks are tender, about 10 minutes.

Transfer to a blender or food processor in batches and puree until smooth or use an immersion blender and puree right in the soup pot.

Season to taste with salt, pepper and celery salt.

Compound Butters

I enjoy reading cookbooks and while I told myself several times that I should stop borrowing cookbooks, I currently have 5 books at home. Let's Cook Japanese Food! hasn't disappointed yet. All three recipes I've tried got my family's seal of approval. I haven't tried anything from Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys although I wrote down a few of the recipes I would like to try. I don't know if I will have time though as the book is due on Monday and I know it's one of the most sought after books, so I'm sure I won't be able to renew it. I love how Cooking Light's Way to Cook: The Complete Visual Guide to Everyday Cooking and Way to Cook Vegetarian is laid out and I plan to go over the books this week-end and try some of the recipes. The latest book I checked out today is The Breakfast Book and while scanning it this morning, it seems to have some promising recipes.

One of the first things that caught my interest was how to make compound butter. Coincidentally, I found this video today.

Compound butters are ideal for entertaining and a simple way to give warm biscuits and bread a flavorful touch. To prepare, allow a stick of unsalted butter to soften at room temperature, and then choose your additions. The butter will stay fresh in the refrigerator for about three weeks.

1. Place a stick of softened, unsalted butter in a bowl, then stir in the chosen flavoring.

• Sweet: 1 tablespoon of cinnamon, honey or maple syrup
• Savory: 3 cloves of garlic, minced, and 1 tablespoon of chopped chives
• Versatile: 1 tablespoon of grated citrus rind

2. Transfer the butter to a sheet of wax paper. Fold the edge over the butter, and roll it lengthwise into a log.

3. Twist the ends of the wax paper in opposite directions to seal. Chill for at least an hour before cutting.

Broiled, Sautéed, Roasted, Poached
By MARK BITTMAN
If you’re serious about eating sustainable fish, you may have given up on the most fundamental of all: the white fillet. After nearly exhausting cod stocks 20 years ago, we have gone through a dozen or more alternatives, from red snapper to orange roughy to so-called Chilean sea bass, and fished them all practically out of existence.

Now it seems difficult to know which fish are managed well enough to eat without guilt. (As it happens, cod, of all things, isn’t bad right now, as long as it isn’t caught by a trawler.) But if you buy from a reliable store, like Target, Wegmans or Whole Foods, which have adopted seafood-sustainability practices far more effectively than many other major retailers, or consult online sources like the Monterey Bay Aquarium, you can eat white-fleshed fish without guilt.

The next problem is that you may wind up buying a fish with which you’re unfamiliar. Is it cod, catfish, sea bass, halibut, grouper, tilefish, haddock, some form of snapper — or what?

The good news is that it barely makes any difference. You can cook any white fillet the same way you cook any other white fillet: broiled, sautéed, roasted or poached, and teamed with just about any seasoning you can think of, from the obvious, like tomatoes and capers, to the semiexotic, like sugar and fish sauce. (In this recipe chart, I’m assuming you’ll always use salt and pepper.) And this isn’t just me giving you permission or a barely acceptable compromise. It works.

The chart on the following page provides ideas for cooking 1½ pounds of white fillet, whether whole or cut into individual portions. None of these recipes take more than half an hour from start to finish; thicker pieces of fish will cook in 15 minutes or less, thinner pieces in under 10. You can tell that any fillet is done when it’s opaque and a thin-bladed knife meets little resistance when you use it to poke the thickest part of the fish.

Cooking white fish is easy. The hard part — besides figuring out what’s sustainable — is choosing the recipe.


Cooking white fish is easy. The hard part — besides figuring out what’s sustainable — is choosing the recipe.

1. BROILED



With Tomatoes and Capers

Set rack 4 inches from heat source. Spread a broiler-safe pan with olive oil. Add fish. Mix 1 pound sliced tomatoes with oil and 2 tablespoons each capers and chopped red onion. Spread over and around fish; broil. Garnish: Chopped parsley and lemon wedges.

Tacos

Skip tomatoes and capers. Rub fish with vegetable oil and a mild chili powder; broil. Meanwhile combine 2 chopped cucumbers, 1/2 cup chopped cilantro, 1 minced hot chili and 2 tablespoons lime juice. Flake fish and serve in warm corn tortillas with cucumber salsa.

Caramelized Fish

Skip tomatoes and capers. Heat a little vegetable oil in pan; dredge fish in a mixture of brown sugar and (lots of) coarse black pepper. Broil carefully; fish will brown quickly. Drizzle with fish sauce. Garnish: Mint (lots), minced chili (optional).

2. SAUTÉED



Cornmeal-Crisped

Cut fish into 4 pieces and soak in 1½ cups buttermilk. Combine 1 cup cornmeal with 1 tablespoon chili powder. Put a large skillet over medium heat; add 1 tablespoon each olive oil and butter. Pull half the fish from buttermilk; drain, then dredge in cornmeal; cook until golden, turning once. Wipe skillet clean, then repeat. Garnish: Lemon and parsley or cilantro.

Classic Sautéed

Skip buttermilk, cornmeal and chili powder. Beat 2 eggs with ¼ cup chopped parsley. Dredge the fish lightly in all-purpose flour, then in egg mixture; cook in butter and oil in two batches. Garnish: Chopped parsley, lemon wedges.

Prosciutto-Wrapped

Skip buttermilk, cornmeal and chili powder. Lay 2 slices of prosciutto, slightly overlapping, on work surface; top with basil leaves. Wrap each piece of fish in prosciutto/basil, then repeat. Cook in oil only in two batches. Garnish: More basil.

3. ROASTED



With Herbs

Heat oven to 475. Put 4 tablespoons butter in an ovenproof pan and place in oven to melt. Add 4 tablespoons chopped herbs (a combo is best — parsley, dill, basil, tarragon, thyme, etc.), then add fish. Roast, turning once. Garnish: The pan juices.

With Potatoes

Skip butter and herbs. Heat oven to 425. Toss 2 pounds sliced new potatoes with ¼ cup olive oil. Roast, turning occasionally, until brown. Add 1 tablespoon chopped sage and 1 teaspoon (or more) minced garlic. Top with fish and 2 tablespoons oil. Roast until fish is done. Garnish: Pan juices.

With Leeks and Bacon

Skip butter and herbs. Toss 4 sliced leeks and 2 ounces chopped bacon (optional) with ¼ cup olive oil. Roast for 10 minutes, then add 1 tablespoon thyme leaves and ½ cup white wine. Roast 20 minutes, then top with fish and 2 tablespoons oil and roast until fish is done. Garnish: More thyme.

4. POACHED



With Ginger and Soy

Put a large, deep skillet over medium heat; add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon minced ginger; cook until sizzling. Add fish, ½ cup soy sauce, 1½ cups water, ½ cup chopped scallions, ½ cup chopped cilantro and a teaspoon rice vinegar. Boil, cover and turn off heat. Fish will be done in about 10 minutes. Garnish: Chopped scallions.

Curried With Zucchini

Sauté 1 chopped onion and 2 chunked zucchini in oil for 5 minutes, then add 1 tablespoon ginger and 1 tablespoon curry powder (or to taste). Cook for a minute, then add fish. Substitute 1 cup coconut milk for soy sauce and use 1 cup water. Skip scallions and vinegar. Garnish: Cilantro.

In Tomato-Fennel Broth

Skip ginger; use olive oil. When oil is hot, add 1 chopped onion and 2 chopped fennel bulbs; cook 5 minutes. Add the fish, a pinch of saffron and 1 tablespoon fennel seeds. Substitute 1 cup diced tomatoes (canned are fine) for soy sauce; use 1 cup water. Skip scallions, cilantro and rice vinegar. Garnish: Chopped fennel fronds.

Salmon Teriyaki

Here's another recipe from Let's Cook Japanese Food! Everyday Recipes for Home Cooking. I used salmon, and my son wants to try it with chicken next time. He loves Chicken Teriyaki, which he invariably orders whenever we're at a Japanese restaurant.

4 salmon fillets, each about 6 ounces, about 3/4-inch thick
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon mirin
1-1/2 teaspoons sake
1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil

Pat the fish fillets dry with paper towels. Arrange the fillets in a single layer in a shallow dish. In a small bowl, stir together the soy sauce, sugar, mirin and sake until the sugar dissolves. Pour the mixture over the fillets, and turn the fillets to coat evenly. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 30-40 minutes.

In a large frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, remove the fillets from the marinade, reserving the marinade, and add to the pan. Cook until medium brown on the first side, about 3 minutes. Carefully turn the fillets over and cook on the second side until light brown, about 2 minutes longer. Watch carefully that the glaze clinging to the fillets does not burn. If it seems like it might, reduce the heat to medium-low. Pour the reserved marinade over the fish and cook, gently shaking the pan initially to distribute the sauce evenly over the fish, until the sauce is reduced to a syrup and the fish is dark brown, 1-2 minutes longer. Transfer the fish fillets to individual plates and serve hot.

Sweet Simmered Chicken and Vegetables

Here's the second recipe I tried from Let's Cook Japanese Food!

1/2 cup trimmed, cut-up green beans (2-inch pieces)
5 tablespoons mirin
5 tablespoons sake
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1/2 lb ground chicken
4 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps quartered
1/2 cup sliced bamboo shoots
1 carrot, peeled, halved lengthwise, and then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch thick half-moons
1 parsnip, peeled, halved lengthwise, and then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch thick half-moons
Salt

Bring a small saucepan filled with water to a boil, add the green beans, and blanch for 1 minute. Drain into a sieve and immediately hold under running cold water to halt the cooking. Place near the stove. In a small bowl, stir together the mirin, sake, soy sauce, and sugar until the sugar dissolves. Place the bowl near the stove.

In a large frying pan, heat the canola and sesame oils over medium-high heat. hen they are hot, swirl to coat the bottom and sides of the pan and add the chicken, breaking it up with a spatula. Cook, stirring, until half cooked, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms, bamboo shoots, carrot and parsnip and cook, stirring until the chicken is cooked through and the vegetables have started to soften, 5-7 minutes. Add the mirin texture, mix well, and reduce the heat to medium. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes longer.

Season to taste with salt, add the green beans, stir to mix, and heat through. Transfer to a serving bowl or platter and serve.

Serves 2.

Chickpea Vegetable Soup With Parmesan and Rosemary

I love beans, even if my husband hates it. Here's another recipe to try.

Time: 1 1/2 to 2 hours plus overnight soaking

1 whole clove

1/2 onion, sliced root to stem so it stays intact, peeled

1 pound dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained

1 sprig rosemary, plus 1 teaspoon finely chopped leaves

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 fresh bay leaves or 1 dried

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons salt, more to taste

1 small Parmesan rind, plus 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan

1 cup diced tomatoes, canned or fresh

2 medium carrots, sliced into

1/4-inch rounds

2 celery stalks, sliced 1/4-inch thick

Zest of 1 lemon

1/4 teaspoon black pepper.

1. Insert the clove into the onion. Put the onion in a large pot with the chickpeas, rosemary sprig, garlic, bay leaves, olive oil, salt and cheese rind. Add 5 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for about an hour, or until chickpeas are tender.

2. Add the tomatoes, carrots and celery, cover loosely, and simmer until the vegetables are soft, about 25 minutes longer. While soup simmers, mix the chopped rosemary, grated Parmesan, lemon zest and pepper in a small bowl.

3. Season the soup to taste and ladle into bowls. Sprinkle with the Parmesan mixture.

Yield: 6 servings.

IT used to be that whenever I whipped up a big pot of beans, I’d strain the cooking liquid directly down the drain.

This was back when I thought that, if you salted the beans while they simmered, they would never cook through, a culinary myth I bought into for years.

I was wrong on both counts. Salting beans gives them a richer, fuller and, well, saltier flavor. Ditto the broth: the added salt enhances the aromatics, making the broth as heady as chicken soup, minus the fowl.

This was abundantly clear when I stuck a spoon into a simmering batch of chickpeas destined for crostini. They smelled so good, so rich and herby that I couldn’t resist snagging a mouthful. Then I immediately gave myself a mental kick for wasting all those tasty bean broths over the years.

The broth was so flavorful that I decided to use it in a simple vegetarian version of an Italian egg-drop soup called stracciatella: to make it, whisk together an egg, a little grated lemon zest and some Parmesan, then whisk the mixture into simmering broth. It went very nicely with my chickpea crostini.

And it gave me the idea for a chickpea soup full of vegetables and garlic, finished with rosemary.

My plan was to keep everything streamlined, stirring in a few vegetables as the beans simmered. I didn’t sauté them, as I wanted to deepen the inherent flavors of the broth without introducing browned, caramelized nuances you get from searing in oil. Plus, it’s much easier to throw everything into one pot.

Chickpeas have a gentle taste and go well with pretty much any vegetable, but I used what was on hand — carrots, celery and some canned diced tomato — to add a little color and body to the broth.

Then, for serving, I took my cue from the stracciatella, sprinkling grated Parmesan, lemon zest and a pinch of minced rosemary on top. It gave the soup just the right intensity and another hit of salt — which, so I’ve learned, goes very well with beans.

Asian Vinaigrette

I love it with salad greens with a little dill and some canned corn.

Mix all ingredients and whisk until peanut butter has dissolved.  May also use food processor:
 
1/2 c sesame oil
1/2 c soy sauce
1/2 c rice wine vinegar
1/4 c honey
2 T peanut butter
2 T brown sugar
1/4 c toasted sesame seeds (optional)

Crispy Adobo with Adobo Rice

1½ k pork liempo (cut 1½” wide, ½” thick)

¼ k chicken liver

½ c soy sauce

½ c vinegar

½ c water

1 tsp brown sugar

2 pcs laurel

1 tsp peppercorn

1 head small garlic, crushed for adobo

1 head small garlic, crushed for adobo rice

1 c cooking oil for frying

Put all the ingredients together in a saucepan, add water and let them boil. Once boiling, lower the heat and cook till meat is tender. When cooked, remove meat from the sauce, drain and set aside. Press or mash the chicken liver and return to the sauce. Reduce liquid until sauce thickens.

Meanwhile, deep-fry the pork in oil until crispy, but do not overcook. Remove from oil then drain.

Serve the pork separately on a platter with the adobo sauce and adobo rice.

To make adobo rice, take part of the oil used in frying the pork and cook garlic till brown. Add the cooked rice and mix about 3-4 tbsp of the adobo sauce into the rice and add strips of fried adobo pork.

Oven-Fried Chicken

Here are two versions of the recipe. I've tried the first one years ago after a friend shared it with me. The second one, I plan to try soon.

Oven Fried Parmesan Garlic Chicken

Cook Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour

Ingredients:

* 1/2 cup margarine or butter
* 2 cloves garlic, minced
* 8 boneless chicken breast halves
* 2/3 cup grated parmesan cheese
* 1 cup fine dry bread crumbs
* 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley or 2 tablespoon dried parsley flakes
* 1 teaspoon salt
* 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Preparation:
In a saucepan over low heat, melt butter with minced garlic. Make a crumb mixture with bread crumbs, parmesan cheese, parsley, salt, and pepper. Dip chicken pieces in butter; roll in crumb mixture. Place in a 9- x13-inch baking dish and bake at 350° for 50 to 60 minutes.


Oven-Fried Chicken Parmesan


Serve a classic family-favorite for an easy weeknight meal in minutes. Pair with an easy starch and a small green salad.


Preparation Time: 30 minutes minutes
Yield: 4 servings (serving size: 1 breast half)


1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large egg whites, lightly beaten
3/4 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
4 (6-ounce) skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
Cooking spray
1/2 cup jarred tomato-basil pasta sauce
1/2 cup (2 ounces) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
3/4 cup (3 ounces) shredded part-skim mozzarella cheese

1. Preheat oven to 450°.

2. Combine first 3 ingredients in a shallow dish; place egg whites in a bowl. Place panko in a shallow dish. Dredge 1 breast half in flour mixture. Dip in egg whites; dredge in panko. Repeat procedure with remaining chicken, flour mixture, egg whites, and panko.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken to pan; cook 2 minutes. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Turn chicken over; cook 2 minutes. Coat chicken with cooking spray; place pan in oven. Bake at 450° for 5 minutes. Turn chicken over; top each breast half with 2 tablespoons sauce, 2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano, and 3 tablespoons mozzarella. Bake 6 minutes or until chicken is done.


CALORIES 401 ; FAT 16.9g (sat 6.4g,mono 7.6g,poly 1.3g); CHOLESTEROL 95mg; CALCIUM 352mg; CARBOHYDRATE 15.9g; SODIUM 719mg; PROTEIN 44.4g; FIBER 0.6g; IRON 1.8mg

Cooking Light, SEPTEMBER 2009

Coconut Custard Pie

This is our version of the Coconut Cream (or Custard) Pie. Instead of using dried shredded or flaked coconut, we use coconut strips. Luckily, I found a store that imported frozen coconut strips. Most of the stores sell the grated form.

For the pie crust:
Please refer to this link. I usually buy store-bought pie crust.


For the custard filling

* 1/4 cup granulated sugar
* 4-1/2 T cornstarch
* Pinch of iodized salt
* 3 large egg yolks, beaten
* 1 can of evaporated milk
* 1 cup or more coconut strips

For the meringue

* 3 large egg whites
* 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
* 6 tablespoons granulated sugar
* 1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Make the custard filling

1. In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks and set aside.

2. In another bowl, combine the sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Use a fork or a whisk to mix them well. Slowly pour 1 can of evaporated milk + 1/3 can water. Set bowl over a pot of boiling water (I don't have a double boiler so I improvise) and stir until mixture begins to steam. Scoop out about 1/2 cup of the hot milk and pour it into the beaten egg yolks, stirring constantly as you pour. This warms up the eggs and discourages them from curdling. Pour the bowl of egg yolk-milk mixture into the milk mixture in the bowl over medium heat and stir well. Continue to cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the custard mixture becomes very smooth and has thickened to about the consistency of cream. Cook for about 1 minute more and then remove the pan from the heat.

3. Add the coconut to the custard in the pan. Stir to mix everything. Place a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the custard and set it aside to cool to room temperature. When the custard has cooled down, remove the plastic wrap and pour it into the piecrust.

Make the meringue

1. Heat the oven to 350° F.

2. Beat the egg whites and cream of tartar in a medium bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until foamy. Increase the speed to high and gradually add the sugar, about 2 tablespoons at a time. Beat the egg whites until they swell up into plump, shiny, soft clouds that hold firm, curly peaks.

3. Scoop the meringue on top of the cooled custard filling, spreading the meringue all the way to the crust and mounding the meringue up slightly in the center of the pie. Create swoops and swirls in the meringue for decorative effect.

4. Place the coconut custard pie on the middle rack of the oven and bake until the meringue is a beautiful golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Place the pie on a cooling rack or a folded kitchen towel and let cool to room temperature. Serve at room temperature or, if desired, refrigerate and serve chilled.

Annie’s Chinese Adobo

Here's another version of adobo - a sweeter kind.



3 dried Chinese dried black mushrooms

2 c hot water used to soak dried mushrooms

3 tbsp oil

1/3 c sugar

6 cloves garlic crushed (or 2 tbsp)

1 kg pork liempo (belly), cut into 1-in pieces

1/3 c soy sauce

1 pc star anise

2 tbsp Shao Hsing Chinese rice wine (or any rice wine)

1 stalk leeks, tied in a knot

6 hard-boiled eggs

Chopped leeks for garnish

Soak dried black mushrooms in hot water for 30 minutes; cut in halves and set aside. Measure 1 c mushroom water and set aside.

Heat oil in a sauce pan. Add sugar until very light brown. Do not mix sugar with spoon. Just swirl the oil in pan and let sugar caramelize. Add garlic and cook until fragrant and golden but not burnt.

Add pork belly and mix well to brown meat with caramelized sugar.

To the saucepan, add soy sauce, mushroom water, star anise, black mushrooms, Shao Hsing Chinese rice wine and leeks. Let it boil, turn heat to very low, cover pan and cook for 45 minutes.

Add hard-boiled eggs and continue cooking Chinese adobo for 30 more minutes or until meat is tender. Discard cooked leeks and star anise. Garnish with chopped leeks on top.

Note: Can omit dried black mushrooms and use water instead.

Leftover oatmeal fritters

* Olive or vegetable oil for frying
* 3 cups cooked oatmeal, preferably chilled
* All-purpose flour if needed

Preparation

Put a thin film of oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Form the oatmeal into 1-inch balls and flatten the balls into patties. (If the patties don't hold their shape, stir flour into the oatmeal, 1 tablespoon at a time, and try again.) When the oil is hot, add the patties to the pan in a single layer (you may have to work in batches). Fry the patties until crisp and golden, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Drain the fritters on paper towels and serve warm or at room temperature.

Time: 20 minutes with cooked oatmeal
Serving Size

4 servings

Overnight Muesli

Ingredients

• 2 cups rolled oats
• 2/3 cup mixed nuts and seeds (like sunflower seeds, chopped walnuts, pecans, almonds, cashews, sesame seeds, etc.)
• 1/3 cup shredded unsweetened coconut, optional
• 1/3 cup raisins or chopped dried fruit
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or to taste
• Dash salt
• 3 cups yogurt, plus more for garnish

Preparation

Combine the oats, nuts and seeds, coconut if you’re using it, raisins, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl. Stir in the 3 cups yogurt, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Serve garnished with additional yogurt.

Time: 10 minutes, plus time to chill

Miso Ramen with all the Trimmings

4 eggs
10 ounces dried ramen noodles
1/2 cup bamboo shoots -- fresh or canned, sliced
1/2 cup corn kernels -- fresh or canned, drained
1/3 cup spinach -- fresh or frozen (thawed)
8 cups stock -- vegetable or meat, store-bought or homemade
2 teaspoons instant dashi granules
1 tablespoon soy sauce -- or to taste
4 tablespoons fresh miso paste
1 cup fresh bean sprouts
2 green onions -- finely chopped
4 teaspoons chilli oil

More topping options:
Top with store bought barbeque cha-siu pork
enoki mushrooms
sliced Japanese fish cakes
snow peas
spinach leaves
firm tofu, diced

Place the whole, un-cracked eggs in a medium pot and fill with water to cover eggs by 1-inch. Turn the heat to high and when boiling, turn the heat to medium and let the eggs cook for 10 minutes. Promptly use a slotted spoon to remove the
eggs and peel the egg under cold running water. Slice each egg in half.

Return the same pot of water to a boil. Add the ramen noodles and cook for 3 minutes, until the noodles are cooked through. Drain and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking.

Divide the noodles, hardboiled eggs, bamboo shoots, corn and spinach among 4 large serving bowls.

In a large pot, add the stock, instant dashi and soy sauce. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the miso. Taste the soup and add an additional 1 to 2 tablespoons of miso, if you'd like. Ladle soup into each bowl. Top each bowl with fresh bean sprouts, green onions and a drizzle of chilli oil, if desired.

Serves 4.

Soup - Creamy, Brothy, Earthy, Hearty

From Mark Bittman

I’m not anti-recipe (obviously), but some things just don’t need them — and most vegetable soups fall into that category. Here are easy-to-follow instructions for making vegetable (vegetarian and, for the most part, vegan) soups with common ingredients, a variety of choices and terrific flavor. Print the following page, stick it on your refrigerator and work your way through it. By the time you’re done — 12 days or 12 weeks later — you’ll never again need a recipe for vegetable soup. Promise.

And you’ll need no special techniques, no advance preparation and, for the most part, not much time. You can use just about any vegetable (or bean) you have on hand. These are not stone soups, but they’re close.

I’ve created four essential categories: creamy (vegetables puréed with dairy); brothy (a strained vegetable stock, with quick-cooking ingredients added); earthy (with beans); and hearty (the vegetables sautéed first, to deepen their flavor).

A few practical notes: All of these recipes serve four, and you’ll want about a 2.5-to-4-quart (medium or large) pot. Most can be cooked for a while — but not so long that the freshness is gone. Most will taste as good or better the next day, so consider making a double batch and refrigerating (or freezing) the leftovers. But never boil a soup after you’ve added dairy to it; instead, reheat gently.

If you want a supersmooth soup (and just about any of these soups can be puréed if you like), use a standing blender — let the soup cool a bit first — which creates a finer purée than an immersion blender does; you might even strain the soup after puréeing it.

Garnishes are all optional, though herbs add a dimension that will be lacking otherwise. If you taste as you’re cooking, you’ll be fine, because there is really nothing to go wrong here.

1. CREAMY

Creamy Spinach Soup
Put 1 chopped onion, 2 peeled garlic cloves, 3 cups water and salt and pepper in a pot over high heat. Boil, cover, lower the heat and simmer until the onion is tender, about 10 minutes. Add 10 ounces chopped spinach and 1/2 cup parsley leaves; cook until the spinach is tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 cup Greek-style yogurt and purée. Garnish: A spoonful of Greek-style yogurt and chopped parsley.

Squash-and-Ginger Soup
Substitute 1 tablespoon minced ginger for the garlic and 4 cups chopped butternut squash for the spinach (it will take longer to soften). Skip the parsley and substitute half-and-half or cream for the yogurt. Garnish: A spoonful of cream.

Curried Cauliflower Soup
Substitute 1 tablespoon minced ginger for the garlic, 2 cups cauliflower florets for the spinach (they will take longer to soften), 1 tablespoon curry powder for the parsley and coconut milk for the yogurt. Garnish: Chopped cilantro.

2. BROTHY

Vegetable Broth With Toast
Put 2 chopped carrots, 2 chopped onions, 1 small chopped potato, 2 chopped celery ribs, 2 garlic cloves, 10 sliced mushrooms, 1 cup chopped tomatoes (canned are fine), 10 parsley sprigs, 1/2 ounce dried porcini, 8 cups water and salt and pepper in a pot over high heat. Boil, lower heat and simmer until the vegetables are soft, 30 minutes or longer. Strain and serve over toasted good bread. Garnish: Chopped celery leaves.

Egg Drop Soup
Beat 4 eggs. Boil the strained stock, lower the heat so it simmers and add the eggs in a steady stream, stirring constantly until they’re cooked, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in 1/4 cup chopped scallions, 1 tablespoon soy sauce and 1 tablespoon sesame oil. Skip the bread. Garnish: Chopped scallions.

Rice-and-Pea Soup
Boil the strained stock, lower the heat so it simmers and add 3/4 cup white rice. Cook until tender, then add 2 cups fresh or frozen peas; cook for a minute or two. Skip the bread. Garnish: Grated Parmesan.

3. EARTHY

Bean Soup
Put 1 1/2 cup dried beans, 1 chopped onion, 2 chopped carrots, 2 chopped celery ribs, 2 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves and 6 cups water in a pot over high heat. Boil, lower the heat, cover and simmer until the beans are soft, at least 1 hour, adding more water if necessary. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish: A drizzle of olive oil.

Chickpea-and-Pasta Soup
Substitute chickpeas for the beans and rosemary for the thyme and add 1 cup chopped tomatoes (canned are fine). When the chickpeas are almost tender, add 1/2 cup small pasta. Cook until the pasta and chickpeas are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Garnish: A few chopped rosemary leaves.

Spicy Black-Bean Soup
Use black beans and substitute fresh oregano for the thyme. When the beans are done, add 1 tablespoon chili powder, 1 dried or canned chipotle and the juice of a lime. Garnish: Cilantro and sour cream.

4. HEARTY

Minestrone
Sauté 1 chopped onion, 1 chopped carrot, 1 chopped celery rib and 1 teaspoon minced garlic in 3 tablespoons olive oil for 5 minutes. Add 2 cups cubed potatoes and salt and pepper; cook for 2 minutes. Add 1 cup chopped tomatoes (canned are fine) and 5 cups water. Boil, lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Add 1 cup chopped green beans; simmer for 20 minutes. Garnish: Chopped parsley and grated Parmesan.

Mushroom Soup
Substitute 1 1/2 pounds sliced mushrooms (preferably an assortment) for the potatoes; sauté until they brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Substitute ½ cup white wine for the tomatoes, skip the green beans and add a fresh thyme sprig with the water. Garnish: A few thyme leaves.

Tomato-and-Garlic Soup
Use 2 tablespoons minced garlic and substitute 2 tablespoons tomato paste for the celery. Skip the potatoes and green beans; use 3 cups tomatoes and 3 cups water. Cook the tomatoes for 10 to 15 minutes. Garnish: Lots of chopped or torn basil.