To my mind, the savory breakfast cereal of champions is congee, a silky, soupy rice porridge that is thought to have originated in China during the Zhou dynasty and remains a morning staple throughout East Asia. In its most elemental form, congee is nothing more than rice simmered in stock or water until the grains disintegrate. It's the garnishes that let a cook get creative.
In China, laba zhou—a rich rice porridge of assorted grains, red beans, nuts and dried fruits—is traditionally eaten in early-to-mid-January, to kick off the celebration of the Lunar New Year. But even simple additions, like chopped scallions or a dash of fish sauce, can make a congee sing.
In deep midwinter, when roast chicken is my Sunday-supper constant, I often simmer a stock from the leftover bones. Monday morning, into my biggest pot that goes, along with a cup of rice, a flurry of salt and a knob of fresh ginger. An hour later, the kitchen is fragrant and cozy, and my stomach is rumbling. Finished with fiery chili-sesame oil and a spoonful of crushed peanuts, the result is a grown-up porridge that never fails to make my inner Oliver Twist beg for more.
Total Time: 1¼ hours Serves: 6
4 cups chicken stock
6 cups water
1 2-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
1 cup long grain white rice, such as jasmine
1½ teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Chopped chives, for garnish
Crushed peanuts, for garnish
Chili-sesame oil, for garnish
1. In a medium-large saucepan, combine stock, water, ginger, rice and 1½ teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then stir and reduce heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until rice has broken down and congee has consistency of a thin oatmeal, about 1 hour. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
2. Ladle congee into bowls. Garnish each portion with chives, peanuts and a drizzle of oil.
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