Saturday, June 07, 2014

French Toast

My son came from camping and made his own breakfast today - french toast.

He should try these recipes from WSJ.

Mastering the Art of French Toast

Done right, this breakfast buffet standby is a revelation


DRENCHED IN CUSTARD and griddled to a buttery crunch, French toast has become the defining dish of posh hotel buffets—though its roots are decidedly more modest. This method for making stale bread palatable appeared as far back as Roman times and has remained in the repertoire of European and American cooks—under such aliases as eggy bread, pain perdu (lost bread) and arme ritter (poor knights).
Can I confess? For years I couldn't really stomach the stuff. Like a crush who turns out to be a terrible kisser, French toast always disappointed. Too eggy, too sweet, too stiff, too soggy—something was invariably off.
So, I recently made it my mission to find a recipe I could love. A survey of trusted sources confirmed the unchanging elements: bread, eggs, milk. But the variables were plenty. I knew that for maximum absorption, dry bread was a must. (A day or two old is best, but a quarter-hour in a low oven will render a fresh loaf eligible.) Many recipes called for challah or brioche, but I found their eggy sweetness a bit of overkill in this context. A dense, white sandwich bread like Pullman, sliced thick? That was more like it.
As for the custard dip, I considered the advice of Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins in "The New Basics Cookbook." They suggested adding a glug of cream, a shot of liqueur or a spoonful of orange juice; I settled on a splash of vanilla and some brown sugar in hopes of amping up the caramelization when toast met sizzling pan. Married chefs Allison Vines-Rushing and Slade Rushing delivered a true epiphany by calling for yolks only in the French toast recipe featured in their cookbook, "Southern Comfort." Not only did this make for a richer custard, it also eliminated the scrambled-egg flavor I'd objected to in other iterations.
When it came time to fry, I reached for the butter dish...and paused. Butter has long been the dominant French toast frying medium, and it does lend a rich taste and appealing sepia hue. But it's not without its pitfalls—namely, a propensity for burning. I hated to sacrifice flavor but wanted a method that would give the bread a crisp exterior without scorching. So I split the difference, stirring a little melted butter into my custard and drizzling the pan with oil.
Amber and aromatic, with a yielding interior and a hint-of-brown-sugar crust, this French toast finally made me understand what all the fuss was about. I even began daydreaming about other dishes in which it might feature. There was, of course, the Monte Cristo, that classic ham, cheese and turkey sandwich dipped in an egg batter before frying. There wasn't any ham in the house, or turkey either. But I did have a hunk of cheddar on hand as well as a gleaming apple, and they're always a happy couple. So I sliced both thinly and arrayed them between slices of bread smeared with mayonnaise and sharp English mustard, then gave the sandwich a quick dip in a barely sweetened custard and slipped it into a hot pan to get nice and golden.
Reader, it was a revelation. Sliced into triangles and drizzled with dark maple syrup, the sandwich was sweet and savory, crunchy and gooey, humble and wholly beguiling.

Brown Sugar French Toast
Total Time: 35 minutes Serves: 4
1 cup milk
4 egg yolks
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Eight ¾-inch-thick slices day-old white Pullman bread
Vegetable oil
1 lemon
Powdered sugar, for garnish
1. In a wide, shallow bowl, combine milk, egg yolks, butter, brown sugar, salt and vanilla. Whisk until well blended.
2. Working with one slice at a time, dip bread in custard until thoroughly moistened but not soggy, about 15 seconds per side. Let excess custard run off into bowl, then transfer slices to a plate and set aside.
3. Set a large frying pan over medium heat. Swirl in enough oil to just coat bottom of pan and heat until it begins to shimmer, 1-2 minutes. Add two custard-dipped bread slices to pan and fry until crisp and golden brown, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer slices to a paper-towel-lined plate and tent loosely with foil to keep warm. (Leave a small opening between foil and plate to prevent toast from becoming soggy.) Repeat with remaining slices, adding a bit more oil if pan gets dry.
4. To serve, divide slices among four plates and top each serving with a squeeze of lemon juice and a light dusting of powdered sugar.
Cheddar and Apple 'Monte Cristo'
Total Time: 25 minutes Serves: 4
¾ cup milk
3 egg yolks
1 teaspoon sugar
8 teaspoons mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Colman's mustard powder
8 slices country-style white sandwich bread
1 large apple, such as Fuji or Gala, peeled and thinly sliced, plus ½ large apple, peeled and chopped, for garnish
8 thin slices sharp Cheddar cheese (about 6 ounces)
Vegetable oil
Maple syrup
1. In a wide, shallow bowl, whisk milk, egg yolks and sugar until well blended. Set aside.
2. In a small bowl, stir together mayonnaise and mustard powder until smooth.
3. Spread each bread slice with 1 teaspoon mayo-mustard mixture. Divide sliced apples and cheddar among half the slices. Top sandwiches with remaining slices.
4. Dip each sandwich into egg-milk mixture so sandwiches are moistened but not soggy, about 5 seconds per side. Set aside on a plate.
5. Set a large frying pan over medium heat. Swirl in enough oil to just coat bottom of pan and heat until it begins to shimmer, 1-2 minutes. Working two at a time, transfer sandwiches to pan and fry until bread is dark golden brown and cheese is thoroughly melted, about 4 minutes per side. Repeat with remaining sandwiches, adding a bit more oil if pan gets dry.
6. Slice sandwiches on the diagonal, garnish with chopped apple and drizzle with maple syrup.

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