French Yogurt Cake with Marmalade Glaze

From Dorie Greenspan.

Makes 8 servings

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup ground almonds (or, if you’d prefer, omit the almonds and use another 1/2 cup all-purpose flour)

2 teaspoons double-acting baking powder

Pinch of salt

1 cup sugar

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1/2 cup plain whole milk yogurt

3 large eggs

1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1/2 cup flavorless oil, such as canola or safflower

1/2 cup lemon marmalade, strained, for glazing the top

1 teaspoon water, for glazing the top 

Getting ready:  Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.  Generously butter an 8 1/2-x-4 1/2-inch loaf pan, place the pan on a lined baking sheet (page 000) and set aside.  Whisk together the flour, ground almonds, if you’re using them, baking powder and salt and keep near by as well.

Put the sugar and zest in a medium bowl and, working with your fingertips, rub the zest into the sugar until the sugar is moist and aromatic.  Add the yogurt, eggs and vanilla to the bowl and whisk vigorously until the mixture is very well blended.  Still whisking, stir in the dry ingredients, then switch to a large rubber spatula and fold in the oil.  You’ll have a thick, smooth batter with a slight sheen.  Scrape the batter into the pan and smooth the top.

Slide the baking sheet into the oven and bake 35 to 40 minutes for the round cake or 50 to 55 minutes, or until the cake begins to come away from the sides of the pan; it will be golden brown and a knife inserted into the center of the cake will come out clean.  Transfer the pan to a rack, cool for 5 minutes, then run a blunt knife between the cake and the sides of the pan.  Unmold and cool to room temperature right-side up.  

To make the glaze:  Put the marmalade in a small pot or a microwave-safe bowl, stir in the teaspoon of water and heat (on the range or in the microwave oven) until the jelly is hot and liquefied.  Using a pastry brush, gently brush the cake with the glaze.  

Serving:  In France, this cake is usually served with a little sweetened crème fraiche, but it lends itself to other toppings as well.  Fresh soft fruit, like sliced peaches or plums, is a natural with this as is berries with a touch of sugar.  And, because the cake is plain and just a little tangy from the yogurt, it pairs happily with lemon cream, curd or mousse and is delicious with chocolate mousse or chocolate sauce.

Storing:  Wrapped well, you can keep the cake at room temperature for at least 4 days and, like many pound cakes, it will be better one day later than it was the day it was made.  If you do not glaze the cake, you can wrap it airtight and freeze it for up to 2 months; glazed it’s best not to freeze the cake.

Yield 8 servings

Time About 1 hour and 20 minutes

Method

• Getting ready: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter an 8 1/2-x-4 1/2-inch loaf pan, place the pan on a lined baking sheet and set aside. Whisk together the flour, ground almonds, if you’re using them, baking powder and salt and keep near by as well.
• Put the sugar and zest in a medium bowl and, working with your fingertips, rub the zest into the sugar until the sugar is moist and aromatic. Add the yogurt, eggs and vanilla to the bowl and whisk vigorously until the mixture is very well blended. Still whisking, stir in the dry ingredients, then switch to a large rubber spatula and fold in the oil. You’ll have a thick, smooth batter with a slight sheen. Scrape the batter into the pan and smooth the top.
• Slide the baking sheet into the oven and bake 35 to 40 minutes for the round cake or 50 to 55 minutes, or until the cake begins to come away from the sides of the pan; it will be golden brown and a knife inserted into the center of the cake will come out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack, cool for 5 minutes, then run a blunt knife between the cake and the sides of the pan. Unmold and cool to room temperature right-side up.
• To make the glaze: Put the marmalade in a small pot or a microwave-safe bowl, stir in the teaspoon of water and heat (on the range or in the microwave oven) until the jelly is hot and liquefied. Using a pastry brush, gently brush the cake with the glaze.
• Serving: In France, this cake is usually served with a little sweetened crème fraiche, but it lends itself to other toppings as well. Fresh soft fruit, like sliced peaches or plums, is a natural with this as is berries with a touch of sugar. And, because the cake is plain and just a little tangy from the yogurt, it pairs happily with lemon cream, curd or mousse and is delicious with chocolate mousse or chocolate sauce.
• Storing: Wrapped well, you can keep the cake at room temperature for at least 4 days and, like many pound cakes, it will be better one day later than it was the day it was made. If you do not glaze the cake, you can wrap it airtight and freeze it for up to 2 months; glazed it’s best not to freeze the cake.

Variations

• Round and Layered French Yogurt Cake: For a cake that’s just a little dressy — a cake like the ones my French friends make for their children’s birthdays — make the cake in a buttered 9-x-2-inch round cake pan, baking the cake for 35 to 40 minutes. When the cake is cool, use a serrated knife to cut the cake horizontally into two layers. You can fill and frost the cake with whatever strikes your fancy, but I think it is lovely filled with lemon cream or spread with jam or curd and frosted with sweetened whipped cream. Just as lovely and perfect for a summer’s day, is to turn the cake into a strawberry shortcake. Spread the cut layer with strawberry jam, fill it with sweetened whipped cream and top the inside layer with cut berries. Finish the cake with clouds of whipped cream and a circle of big, beautiful whole berries.
• Riviera Yogurt Cake: Replace the plain whole-milk yogurt with the same quantity of thick strained yogurt. (I use Total Greek Yogurt with 2 percent fat for this recipe.) Similarly, substitute olive oil, the butter of the Mediterranean, for the vegetable oil. And, to complete the Riviera flavors, add 1/2 tablespoon finely minced fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh mint to the bowl when you are rubbing the sugar and zest together.

Source: Adapted from "Baking From My Home to Yours" by Dorie Greenspan (Houghton-Mifflin, 2006)

Christina Tosi’s Crockpot Cake

From New York Times.

Christina Tosi, the pastry chef and an owner of Momofuku Milk Bar, sits near the beating heart of David Chang’s eclectic and innovative Momofuku restaurant empire. Off the clock, though, her cooking runs to inspired simplicity, as in this simple, tangy, slightly-caramelized at the edges slow-cooker cake, a version of which appears in her forthcoming cookbook from Clarkson Potter, “Milk Bar Life.” Slow-cooker recipes invariably tell you to make something at night and enjoy them in the morning, or to make them in the morning and eat them after work. That only works if you don’t sleep much, or have a part-time job. This is a recipe for a weekend afternoon, or for cooking from the moment you get home until the very near end of a dinner party. It is a four-to-six hour affair.

1/2 pound/226 grams unsalted butter (2 sticks), at room temperature
1 1/4 cups/250 grams granulated sugar
1/4 cup/45 grams packed light brown sugar
3 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3/4 cup/180 milliliters buttermilk
1/3 cup/80 milliliters neutral oil, like canola or grapeseed
1 1/2 cups/180 grams cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Put all but 1 tablespoon of the butter and the sugars in the bowl of a stand mixer and cream with the paddle attachment at medium-high speed, until the mixture is smooth and pale, approximately 3 to 4 minutes. Mix in the eggs and vanilla, then continue to mix for another 3 minutes, until fluffy. Add the buttermilk and oil and mix briefly to combine.

2. Set the mixer to a very low speed and add the cake flour, baking powder and salt, mixing for a minute or so and scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice, until the batter has just come together, with no lumps.

3. Use the remaining tablespoon of butter to grease the interior of a slow cooker, then pour the batter into the pot. Cover and cook on low for somewhere in the neighborhood of 4 to 6 hours, until the cake has set and is cooked through at the center. To serve, run a knife around the edge of the slow cooker to loosen the cake and then carefully invert onto a platter, or simply spoon the cake out of the slow cooker.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Adapted from “Milk Bar Life” (Clarkson Potter, April 2015)

Vaguely Vietnamese Slow Cooker Pork Tacos

From the New York Times.

This recipe uses a mixture of hoisin and fish sauces as braising liquid, and is a riff on an old Corinne Trang recipe for wok-fried rib tips. It results in a vaguely Vietnamese tangle of pulled pork that is best accompanied by a bright and crunchy slaw, and served on warm flour tortillas that recall the soft pliancy of Chinese bao. Cooking time will vary depending on the slow cooker you’re using, but generally the meat begins to fall apart nicely in the neighborhood of 5 to 7 hours.

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 medium-size yellow onion, peeled and diced

8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and minced

1/2 cup hoisin sauce

1/4 cup fish sauce

1 tablespoon sriracha sauce

1/2 bone-in pork shoulder, skin and fat removed, approximately 5 pounds

12 to 16 flour tortillas, warmed

1/3 cup rice vinegar

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons neutral oil, like peanut or grapeseed

1 teaspoon sriracha sauce, or to taste

1 small green cabbage, cored and sliced thinly

2 medium-size cucumbers, peeled and sliced into julienne

2 medium-size carrots, peeled and sliced into julienne

1 Asian pear, peeled, cored and sliced into julienne

1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, rinsed, dried and roughly chopped

1. Place a sauté pan over medium-high heat. After a minute or so, swirl in the sesame oil and then the onions, stirring to combine. Sauté for about 5 minutes, then add the garlic and continue to cook until the onions are soft and becoming translucent. Turn off the heat, stir in the ginger and set aside.

2. Add the hoisin sauce and the fish sauce to the pan, and stir to combine, loosening the mixture with a little less than half a cup of water. Add sriracha sauce to taste.

3. Put a few spoonfuls of the sauce in the bottom of a slow cooker, then nestle the pork on top of it. Pour the remaining sauce over the top of the pork. Cover the slow cooker and cook on low for 5 to 7 hours, or until the pork shreds easily with a fork. Remove the pork from the slow cooker and allow to rest for a few minutes.

4. Meanwhile, make the slaw. Put the vinegar, ginger, sesame oil, neutral oil and sriracha sauce in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add the cabbage, cucumbers, carrots and Asian pear and toss to combine.

5. Shred the pork with a pair of forks. Discard bones. Return the pulled pork to the slow cooker and stir to combine with the juices. Serve with the slaw and warmed tortillas, with the cilantro on the side.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Easy Chickpea Meal

Adapted from Kitchn. 

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
3 cups (or 2 15-ounce cans) cooked and drained chickpeas 

In a large bowl whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, parsley, garlic, cumin, salt, and paprika. Add the chickpeas and stir to combine. The longer the chickpeas marinate, the better they taste, so if you have time, cover and refrigerate for at least an hour and up to a couple of days.

Marinated in olive oil, lemon, garlic, and spices like cumin and paprika, the chickpeas are zesty, smoky, and moreish. To turn them into a sandwich, they are spooned into halves of pita bread (try making your own!) alongside fresh greens, crisp raw onions, and any other vegetables you want to add – tomatoes when they're sweet, crunchy cucumbers, whatever you have in season. I especially like adding ribbons of red-stemmed chard, which add lovely color and texture. Spinach and lettuce are fine alternatives.

Arroz Caldo con Pollo (Chicken Rice Soup with Ginger)

A favorite one-pot meal, this “comfort food” is especially good during the rainy season. 

4 tablespoons oil 
4 tablespoons minced garlic
 1 large onion, diced 
2 in (5 cm) fresh ginger, cut into thin slices 
3/4 cup (150 g) uncooked rice, washed and drained 
7 cups (13/4 liters) water 
1 lb (500 g) boneless chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces 
11/2 teaspoons fish sauce (patis) or 1 teaspoon salt with a dash of soy sauce 
Freshly ground black or white pepper, to taste 
Spring onion, thinly sliced, to garnish 
Pinch of saffron, to garnish 
Kalamansi limes or regular limes, halved, to serve


1 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a pot and stir-fry half of the garlic until golden brown. Add the onion and ginger and stir-fry until the onion is translucent. 
2 Add the rice and stir-fry for 5 minutes until lightly browned. Add the water and cover the pot. Increase the heat and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring occasionally. Then reduce the heat, add the chicken and simmer for another 30 minutes or until the rice and chicken are cooked. 
3 While the rice is cooking, heat the remaining oil in a skillet and stir-fry the rest of the garlic until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper towels and set aside. 
4 When the rice and chicken are cooked, add the fish sauce or salt, stir and continue to simmer over low heat for another 2 minutes. Serve in individual soup bowls seasoned with black or white pepper. Garnish with the spring onion, fried garlic and saffron, and serve with lime halves on the side. 

Pinoy Sauce

Sweet and Sour Sauce Agre Dulce 1 cup (250 ml) water 3 tablespoons tomato ketchup 3 tablespoons sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon hot sauce (Tabasco) (optional) 2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 4 teaspoons water 1 Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes or until the sauce thickens. Serve in small bowls with snacks or appetizers like eggrolls. Keeps in the refrigerator for a week. Makes 1 cup (250 ml) Preparation time: 5 mins Cooking time: 5 mins

Liver Sauce Lechon Sauce 4 oz (125 g) chicken livers or chicken liver pate 2 tablespoons Filipino vinegar (suka) or apple cider vinegar 1/4 cup breadcrumbs 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 small onion, diced 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1/2 cup (125 ml) water 1 If using chicken livers, broil the livers until half done, about 3–4 minutes. Then extract the juices and soft meat by pressing them through a sieve or strainer into a bowl. Discard the tough, stringy bits that do not pass through the sieve. 2 Combine the strained liver meat and juice (or liver pate) with the other ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 30 minutes over medium heat until the mixture thickens. Serve in small bowls with Crispy Roast Pork (page 83). Keeps in the refrigerator for a week. Makes 1 cup (250 ml) Preparation time: 10 mins Cooking time: 35 mins

Eggplant Sauce Sarsang Talong 14 oz (400 g) slender Asian eggplants (about 2 eggplants) 2 tablespoons Filipino vinegar (suka) or apple cider vinegar 1 clove garlic, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 Grill the eggplants whole with the skins intact, turning them several times so that the skins are charred and the flesh is tender, about 15 minutes. Halve the eggplants and scoop out the flesh. Mash the flesh with a fork until smooth. 2 Mix the eggplant flesh with the rest of the ingredients in a bowl. Serve in small bowls as a side dish. Keeps in the refrigerator for a week. Makes 11/ 2 cups (375 ml) Preparation time: 5 mins Cooking time: 15 mins

Green Papaya Pickles Achara This Indian-influenced relish is a favorite in the Philippines. Served as a side dish to accompany fried and broiled fish or meat. 1/2 unripe papaya (about 10 oz/300 g) 1/2 cup (125 ml) Filipino vinegar (suka) or apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar 11/2 teaspoons salt 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1/2 small carrot, cut into matchsticks 1/2 small green or red bell pepper, cut into matchsticks 1 in (21/2 cm) ginger, thinly sliced 1 small onion, finely diced 2 tablespoons raisins 1 Peel and grate the papaya into thin strips. Place the strips in a muslin cloth and squeeze out as much of the water from the papaya as possible. Then place the strips on a wide platter to dry in the sun. 2 Bring the vinegar, sugar and salt to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the papaya strips and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir to mix. Cover the saucepan, turn off the heat and set aside to cool. 3 Transfer the cooled pickles to a sterilized jar or bottle. Keeps for a month in the refrigerator. Makes 21/ 2 cups (625 ml) Preparation time: 50 mins Cooking time: 10 mins

Filipino-style Beef Steak (Bistek)

1-1/2 lbs (750 g) beef sirloin or skirt steak, cut into thin fillets 
2 tablespoons kalamansi lime juice or lemon juice 
2 tablespoons soy sauce 
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 
3 tablespoons oil 
1 medium onion, sliced into rings 
Salt to taste

1 Marinate the beef slices in the kalamansi lime juice, soy sauce and pepper overnight in the refrigerator. 
2 Heat the oil in a skillet and pan-fry the beef until medium-rare, about 30 seconds on each side. Transfer the beef slices to a plate. 
3 In the remaining oil, stir-fry the onion until it is browned. Season the beef with a sprinkling of salt and drizzle a little of the pan juice over the steak. Garnish with the onion slices and serve. 

Serves 4 
Preparation time: 10 mins + overnight marination 
Cooking time: 10 mins

Broccoli Stir-Fry With Chicken and Mushrooms

by Mark Bittman

INGREDIENTS

• 2 tablespoons good-quality vegetable oil
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
• 4 scallions, chopped
• 1 pound broccoli, trimmed and cut into bite-size pieces, the stems no more than 1/4-inch thick
• 8 ounces button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and sliced
•  Salt
• 1 cup water
• 8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs, cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch chunks or thin slices and blotted dry
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
•  Freshly ground black pepper

PREPARATION

1. Put a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add half the oil, swirl it around, and immediately add half the garlic and ginger. Cook for 15 seconds, stirring, then add the broccoli, mushrooms and all but a sprinkling of the scallions. Raise heat to high, and cook, stirring, until mushrooms release their water and broccoli is bright green and beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
2. Sprinkle with salt; add 1 cup water. Stir and cook until almost all liquid evaporates and broccoli is almost tender, another minute or two more, then transfer everything to a plate.
3. Turn heat to medium, add remaining oil, then remaining garlic and ginger. Stir, then add chicken and turn heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until chicken has lost its pink color, three to five minutes.
4. Turn heat to medium. Return broccoli, mushrooms and juices to the pan, and stir. Add soy sauce, sprinkle with more salt and some pepper; add a little more water if mixture is dry. Raise heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced slightly and you’ve scraped up all the bits of chicken. Taste and adjust seasoning, garnish with remaining scallion and serve.

• Stir-fries work with virtually any combination of vegetables; protein-dense food (meat, poultry, fish, tofu, etc.) is optional. Use pork (like shoulder), shrimp, beef (like sirloin), or tofu instead of chicken; slice the meat thinly or the tofu into cubes. Use cabbage, cauliflower, asparagus, green beans, snow peas, carrots or spinach in place of either the broccoli or the mushrooms or both. Or use other mushrooms. Use fish sauce instead of soy sauce and finish with a squeeze of lime to give it a Southeast Asian flavor. Use olive oil, skip the ginger, use onion instead of scallion, and substitute 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary or thyme to give it a Mediterranean flavor profile. Use coconut milk instead of water and 1 tablespoon curry powder instead of soy sauce to give it an Indian flavor profile.

Reversed Impossible Chocolate Flan

Melissa Clark

• Time1 hour, plus 2 hours' cooling
• Yield10 to 12 servings

 

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

In this magical recipe by Ben Mims from his cookbook "Sweet & Southern" (Rizzoli 2014), vanilla cake and chocolate custard are layered into a Bundt pan before baking. In the oven, the two switch places, with the heavier custard sinking while the cake rises to the surface. Once unmolded, you end up with a tender band of cake on the bottom and creamy, wobbly flan on top. It’s rich, soft, deeply fudgy and a hit at dinner parties.

Ingredients

For the cake batter

•  Nonstick cooking spray
• 1 ½ cups/185 grams all-purpose flour
• ½ teaspoon/3 grams kosher salt
• ½ teaspoon/3 grams baking soda
• ½ teaspoon/2 grams baking powder
• ¾ cup/177 milliliters unsweetened coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon/15 milliliters distilled white vinegar or coconut vinegar
• 1 teaspoon/5 milliliters coconut extract (optional)
• 1 teaspoon/5 milliliters vanilla extract
• 1 stick/113 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature
• ¾ cup/150 grams sugar
• 1 large egg

For the custard

• 1 14-ounce can/414 milliliters sweetened condensed milk
• 1 12-ounce can/355 milliliters evaporated milk
• ½ cup/37 grams Dutch-process cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon/5 milliliters vanilla extract
• 4 large eggs

Preparation

Make the batter

1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 375 degrees. Spray a 10-inch Bundt pan with cooking spray.
2. In a bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking soda and baking powder. In another bowl, whisk together coconut milk, vinegar and extracts.
3. Using an electric mixer, beat together butter and sugar until pale and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Beat in egg. Beat in flour mixture and then coconut milk mixture until smooth. Pour into prepared pan and smooth the top.

Make the custard

1. Put all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Hold a soup spoon upside down over the cake batter in pan and gently pour custard over the back of the spoon so it lands gently on cake batter without disturbing it.
2. Set Bundt pan in a large roasting pan and place in oven on the center rack. Pour enough very hot water into roasting pan to come halfway up sides of Bundt pan. As cake bakes, custard will sink to bottom of pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted into cake comes out clean, 45 to 55 minutes. Transfer Bundt pan to a wire rack to cool completely, at least 2 hours.
3. To serve, place a plate or platter upside down over the Bundt pan and invert.

Adapted from “Sweet & Southern” by Ben Mims

Simple Stocks for Soup on the Fly

by Mark Bittman

For years, I’ve written about the merits of homemade stock (or at least stock made by a real person), even insisting that if it’s a choice between canned or boxed stocks and water, you’re better off with water. At their best, the canned and boxed versions taste like salt; at their worst, like chemicals.

But here’s the problem with homemade stock: It’s so good that it doesn’t last long. What’s needed is something you can produce more or less on the spot. Although water is a suitable proxy in small quantities, when it comes to making the bubbling, chest-warming soups that we rely on this time of year, water needs some help.

Fortunately, there are almost certainly flavorful ingredients sitting in your fridge or pantry that can transform water into a good stock in a matter of minutes. The process may be as simple as simmering in water fresh herbs, mushrooms or even tea, or browning aromatics to create richness, or adding staples like crushed tomatoes or coconut milk. To further maximize flavor in minimal time, it pays to reach for ingredients that pack a punch, like miso, anchovies, chipotles, Parmesan rinds, sometimes even leftovers.

These recipes are meant to be fast, so by ‘‘simmer,’’ I mean as little as five minutes and no more than 15. You can season these stocks at the end with salt and pepper to taste, or wait until you’re ready to turn them into full-fledged soups. In the continuing spirit of speed, convert these into soups using things that also cook quickly: some combination of chopped greens or other tender vegetables, cooked grains or beans, shellfish or thinly sliced meats. The recipes here yield about six cups of stock, enough for four servings of soup.

I tend to make these sorts of on-the-fly stocks in small, one-time-use batches, but if you want or need to store them, you can do so in the freezer for weeks or months, or in the fridge for a few days. Whether you stock up or not, take comfort in knowing that soup is never more than a few minutes away.

Coconut Stock

Thai-style (pictured): Combine 4 cups coconut milk, 2 cups water, 1 tablespoon fish sauce (or to taste), the juice of a lime and some chunks of ginger (you can leave the skin on), chile, garlic and lemon grass (if you can find it). Bring to a boil, simmer and strain.

Indian-style: Sauté a chopped onion in oil until deeply browned, then add 2 tablespoons curry powder and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add the coconut milk, water and ginger. After simmering, take out the ginger (no need to strain it unless you don’t want the onion).

Mushroom Stock

Toss a pound of trimmed button mushrooms and a few dried porcini into 6 cups water. It need not be more complicated than this, but adding some onion, carrot or celery makes it even better. Bring to a boil, and simmer. Strain the mushrooms out if you like, but make sure to use them for something.

Miso Stock

So simple it almost feels like cheating. Bring 6 cups water almost to a boil. In a separate bowl, combine ⅓ to ½ cup miso with a splash of the simmering water; whisk until smooth, then, with the heat at a minimum, whisk the miso mixture into the pot. Do not boil this mixture, but heat added ingredients gently.

Herb Stock

Combine 6 cups water with a small handful of rosemary, thyme or sage sprigs, a large handful of parsley sprigs, a few bay leaves, 1 or 2 crushed garlic cloves and a pinch of black peppercorns. Bring barely to a simmer, then turn off the heat; steep a few minutes, and strain.

Smoky Tea Stock

A perfect broth for udon noodles. Drop some sliced ginger into 6 cups water, bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Let rest for a few minutes, then stir in ¼ cup Lapsang souchong tea leaves (green tea is also good). If you can’t find loose tea leaves, use 4 tea bags. Steep for 5 or 10 minutes, then strain. Season with soy sauce if you like, and add some black pepper.

Prosciutto-Parmesan Stock

Combine some prosciutto rinds or ends (or 4 ounces sliced prosciutto), a few pieces of Parmesan rind, 2 crushed garlic cloves, a rosemary sprig and 6 cups water. Bring to a boil, simmer, then strain.

Rustic Tomato Stock

Italian-style (pictured): Sauté 1 tablespoon minced garlic and 2 teaspoons minced anchovies in olive oil until fragrant. Add 3 cups crushed canned tomatoes, 3 cups water and a sprig of thyme, rosemary or basil (or a combination) if you like. Bring to a boil, simmer, then fish out the herbs if you used them.

Mexican-style: Substitute 1 tablespoon minced chipotle in adobo for the anchovies, and add a small minced red or yellow onion to the sauté. Stir in the juice of a lime at the end.

Japanese Beef and Rice Soup

• Time: 10 minutes
• Yield: About 8 cups

 Evan Sung for The New York Times

When the chef Marco Canora was told to cut back on coffee, soda, wine and beer for health reasons, he found himself sipping cups of broth from the stockpots at his restaurant, Hearth, instead. Soon he had designed an entire system of healthful eating (and drinking) around the stuff. This soup, wintry but light, is a satisfying example. At Brodo, a takeout window that he opened in 2013, a to-go cup of broth can be customized in as many ways as an espresso at Starbucks — with ginger juice, mushroom tea and other aromatics and add-ons. This is easy to pull off at home, too.

Ingredients

• 7 cups beef bone broth (see recipe)
• 10 to 12 ounces shredded cooked beef short ribs (from making broth, or use 1 pound shredded braised beef)
• 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
• 3 ½ ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded, caps thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 1 cup cooked brown rice
• ½ cup nori crinkles (or slice up toasted nori sheets into 1/2-inch squares)
• 2 tablespoons tamari
•  Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 1 bunch scallions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)

Preparation

1. Bring broth to a boil over high heat. Stir in meat, ginger, shiitakes, rice, nori, tamari and lemon juice; cook 2 minutes. Stir in scallions. Ladle into bowls and serve.

Adapted from “A Good Food Day” by Marco Canora

Chocolate and Salty Peanut Cookies

• Time:50 minutes
• Yield: About 20 cookies

These cookies offer a terrific blend of salty and sweet, with the crunch of the peanuts lending a bit of texture to a chewy treat. They are also very easy to make and require only about an hour. But do watch the timer -- if they are overcooked, they will lose their chewiness.

 

Featured in: The Joy Of Cooking And Baking, Really. 

Ingredients

• 6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
• 1 packed cup light brown sugar
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 2 large eggs
• 2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 cup semisweet chocolate morsels
• 1 cup salted peanuts

Preparation

1. Using a microwave oven or in a small saucepan, melt butter. Allow it to cool for about 5 minutes. In a medium bowl, using an electric mixer or by hand, beat together the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar. Beat in vanilla, eggs, flour, baking powder and baking soda. Fold in chocolate morsels and peanuts.
2. Refrigerate bowl of cookie dough for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a large baking sheet (or two) with a nonstick liner or parchment paper.
3. Shape chilled dough into fat disks about 2 1/2 inches in diameter and 1/2-inch thick (slightly less than 3 tablespoons of dough for each cookie). Place cookies on baking sheet 1 1/2 inches apart. Bake until golden brown around edges and cracked and chewy in middle, about 15 minutes. If using two sheets, switch position of sheets halfway through baking. Remove cookies from oven while they are still soft in center or they will lose their chewiness as they cool.
4. Allow cookies to rest on baking sheets for about 3 minutes before transferring them to wire racks to cool. When completely cool, store in an airtight container.

Beef Bone Broth

From New York Times.

• Time: At least 5 hours 45 minutes
• Yield: About 3 quarts

Bone broth" has become stylish as part of the Paleo diet, which enthusiastically recommends eating meat and bones. (The idea is to eat like our Paleolithic, pre-agricultural ancestors.) But cooks have known its wonderful qualities for centuries. This robust and savory beef broth — more than a stock, less than a soup — can be the basis for innumerable soups and stews, but it also makes a satisfying and nourishing snack on its own.

 

Ingredients

• 1 ½ pounds bone-in beef short rib
• 2 ½ pounds beef shank or oxtail
• 2 pounds beef knucklebones or neck bones, or a combination of both (or add 1 more pound beef shank or oxtail)
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
• 3 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 3 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
• 2 onions, halved and peeled
• 1 (14.5-ounce) can tomatoes (they can be whole, peeled or diced)
• 1 head garlic, excess skins removed, top chopped off to expose the cloves
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley
• ½ bunch fresh thyme
• ¼ ounce dried shiitake mushrooms
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns

Preparation

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place meat and bones in a roasting pan or on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, turning to coat, then brush all over with tomato paste. Roast until browned, 30 to 35 minutes. They don’t need to cook all the way through but to just develop some color.
2. Put roasted meat and bones in a 12-quart stockpot and add vinegar and enough cold water to cover by 3 inches (about 6 quarts). Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer, uncovered, for 2 to 3 hours. While simmering, occasionally skim fat and foam from the top using a ladle.
3. Add all the remaining ingredients. Continue to simmer, uncovered, for a minimum of 3 hours. If using knucklebones, simmer overnight, 9 to 15 hours, so the knucklebones have sufficient time to break down.
4. Remove meat and bones with a slotted spoon or tongs; reserve meat for another use (such as soup). Pour broth through a fine-mesh strainer into a large heatproof bowl. Once broth has cooled, store in the refrigerator in an airtight container.

Smoky Chickpea, Red Lentil & Vegetable Soup

From Once Upon a Chef.

By Jennifer Segal

Servings: 6

Total Time: 30 Minutes

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 large carrot, diced
• Heaping 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 3/4 teaspoon cumin
• 4 cups low sodium vegetable or chicken broth
• 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
• 1/3 cup red lentils
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1 (14.5-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 1 cup cooked vegetables, frozen peas or chopped fresh greens (or any combination)

Instructions

1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, carrots, smoked paprika and cumin; cook, stirring frequently so the garlic doesn't brown, about 2 minutes more.
2. Add the broth, diced tomatoes, red lentils, thyme, bay leaves, salt, pepper and bring to a boil. Cover the pot and reduce the heat to a simmer; cook for ten minutes. Add the chickpeas, cover the pot and cook 10 minutes more. Fish out the bay leaves, then transfer 2 cups of the soup to a blender and purée until smooth. Add the puréed soup back to the pot and stir. Taste; if you want the soup to be thicker, purée a bit more soup. Add the cooked vegetables, frozen peas or chopped greens and simmer until the soup is hot and the vegetables are warmed through. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve.

Nutrition Information

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• Per serving (6 servings)
• Calories:222
• Fat:7g
• Saturated fat:1g
• Carbohydrates:32g
• Sugar:7g
• Fiber:10g
• Protein:10g
• Sodium:622mg

Pasta e Fagioli (Pasta & Beans Soup)

From Once Upon a Chef.

By Jennifer Segal, adapted from Chef Joe Cicala's recipe in the The Washington Post

Servings: 4

Prep Time: 15 Minutes

Cook Time: 30 Minutes

Total Time: 45 Minutes

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• 4 ounces pancetta, diced
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
• 2 medium carrots, finely diced
• 2 medium ribs celery, finely diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 6 cups low sodium chicken broth
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 (14.5 ounce) cans cannellini beans or chickpeas (or combination), rinsed and drained
• 1/4 cup dried lentils, rinsed (preferably French green lentils, but any green or brown lentils are fine)
• 1 cup diced or chopped canned tomatoes, with their juices
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
• 3/4 cup dried pasta, such as elbow macaroni or ditalini (whole wheat is fine)
• 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving

Instructions

1. Heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large pot over medium-low heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat begins to render, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, carrot and celery and increase the heat to medium; cook, stirring frequently, until the onions become translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan and burn.
2. Add the wine and cook until it has nearly evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the broth, salt, pepper, beans, lentils, diced tomatoes, bay leaves and rosemary. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until the lentils are just tender, 15-30 minutes, depending on the type of lentils you used.
3. Use a slotted spoon to transfer 1 cup of the bean mixture and a little liquid to a blender. Remove the center knob so steam can escape. Hold a paper towel or kitchen towel over the opening to prevent splatters. Purée until smooth and set aside.
4. Add the dried pasta to the pot and stir to incorporate. Turn the heat up to a gentle boil and cook until the pasta is tender but still firm to the bite, anywhere from 8-12 minutes depending on the type of pasta you used. The soup will thicken a bit by the time the pasta is cooked. Fish out and discard the bay leaves.
5. Stir the reserved puréed bean mixture into the soup. (If you're having a hard time getting the mixture out of the blender, remove as much as you can with a rubber spatula, then add some of the hot soup broth to it and swirl around to loosen it up; it should come right out.) Cook briefly, until the soup is heated through.
6. Remove the soup from heat and stir in the Parmigiano-Reggiano. If the soup seems too thick, gradually add 1-2 cups of water or more chicken broth and thin to desired consistency (note: the longer it sits on the stove, the thicker it will get). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls. Drizzle each portion with a touch of extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with more cheese, if desired.
7. Note: This soup is best served immediately; as it sits, the pasta and beans soak up the broth. If the soup gets too thick, you can thin it with a bit of broth or water.

Nutrition Information

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• Per serving (4 servings)
• Serving size:About 2 cups
• Calories:691
• Fat:25g
• Saturated fat:8g
• Carbohydrates:81g
• Sugar:7g
• Fiber:17g
• Protein:36g
• Sodium:1214mg
• Cholesterol:26mg